FJ/BJ Specifications


Great specification 

The original is from HERE & Cruiser FAQ. I have copied the text to my blog in fear that the original site/sites might sometime disappear ....

Toyota Land Cruiser Frequently Asked Questions List
TLC FAQ v1.2b LAST MODIFICATION 6/5/96

SPECIAL NOTE:
This release is basically a stopgap because I won't be able to do more work on
it until after I return from Rubithon in late June.

Edited by Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com)

Information shamelessly pilfered from:
Das Grosse Toyota LandCruiser Buch
Downey Off Road Manufacturing Catalog
Specter Off Road Catalog
TLC Engine Conversion Kit Instruction Manual (Advance Adapters)
Toyota Land Cruiser: 1956-1984
Toyota Trails (TLCA Newsletter)
Toyota Truck & LC Owner's Bible
Toyota Dealer Parts Microfiche
Toyota:  A History of the First 50 Years
Toyota Repair manuals
Various 4x4 Magazines

Contributors (Although they may not have realized at the time :)
Rory Arms, Paul Bech, Gary Bjork, Drew Eckhardt, Lars Gottberg, Neil Kapperman,
Steve Kopito, Willem-Jan Markerink, Andrew Murphy, Park Owens, Marv Spector,
Ian Staines, Roy Stockman

For the Land Cruiser WWW page, check out:
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/tlc/tlc.html

Disclaimer
==========
Well, here goes.  I've decided to bite the bullet and try to set up the
framework of a Land Cruiser FAQ.  I do not claim to be a Land Cruiser expert--
all I am attempting to do is collect the knowledge that the experts on the
list have posted over time into one source.  I welcome any suggestions,
corrections, or additions to this FAQ.  I also welcome "articles" about
various projects (disc conversions/tranny swaps etc.)  Your name will appear
alongside your article.  The information in this FAQ is to be used AT YOUR
OWN RISK.  I am not responsible for any death/dismemberment/grief/increase of
libido that any errors or misinformation cause you!  Also please note:  There
are NO spelling mistakes in this document.  Anything that looks wrong to you
is actually just a Canadian spelling ;).

I have decided that I have put too much work into this thing to leave it as
"quasi-public domain"  Although I can't claim copyright on say, the 1st gear
ratio of an H42 transmission, this COLLECTION of information is my intellectual
property as is what I believe to be unique tabular lay-out of the information.
In any case, you are free to use this information for non-commerical purposes
and distribute it as you wish PROVIDED:  You do not modify it in any way, you
distribute it in complete form (including this disclaimer), and you do not
charge any kind of a fee for its distribution.

The History of Toyota
=====================
Trucks played a pivotal role in the history of the Toyota Motor Company.  In
most cases, the Land Cruiser was the vehicle that carried the Toyota banner
into new markets.  However, a complete history of Toyota requires a look at
the man whos company provided the capital and inital production facilities
necessary for the founding of the Toyota Motor Company.

Sakichi Toyoda was born in 1867 in Yamaguchi, Japan.  He had dedicated his
life to the invention of an automatic textile loom.  In 1907, he formed
Toyoda's Loom works, a company that by 1930 had grown into the Toyoda
Automatic Loom Works (TALW).

Although he shared the inventiveness of his father, Kiichiro Toyoda did not
share the fascination with looms.  Instead Kiichiro dreamed of building
automobiles.  In March 1930, he began to build a prototype engine in a corner
of the Toyoda Automatic Loom Works factory.  By January 29, 1934, Kiichiro had
made enough progress with his engine design that TALW established an
Automobile Department.  The first engine, a 3.4l I6 dubbed the Type A was
completed in September 1934.  The first complete automobile prototype, the
Model A1 was completed in May 1935.

Due to restrictions on the domestic automobile industry, Kiichiro decided that
would be better to focus on the production of trucks.  As a result, the first
prototype Toyota truck, the Model G1 was completed on August 25, 1935.

In July 1936, it was decided that the cars produced by TALW would be marketed
under the name "Toyota."  The name was chosen because it sounded better than
Toyoda, the katakana characters used to represent it were more asthetically
pleasing, and consisted of eight strokes, a lucky number.  The Toyota Motor
Co., Ltd. (TMC) was formed on August 28, 1937.

The Koromo Plant was officially opened in November of 1938.  This plant would
later become known as the Honsha Plant--the site of LandCruiser Production.  The
first vehicle produced at the new factory was the Model BM truck.  The 75hp
engine used in this vehicle was to become the first engine in a Land Cruiser.  

TMC struggled throughout World War II. It was conscripted into making aircraft
engines and tried to continue producing trucks with what little raw materials
were available.  After Japan's surrender in 1945, Toyota was allowed to begin
production of trucks to aid in the rebuilding of Japan.  By 1947, production had
begun on the Model BM truck and the Model SB small truck.

In 1950, the U.S. military filed a special procurement order for 1000 4wd
vehicles to be used in the Korean War.  Toyota responded with a prototype of
the Model BJ on August 1, 1951.  The vehicle was named the "Toyota Jeep"
Fortunately, the right to the "Jeep" name was owned by Willys who forced
Toyota to pick another name.  On June 24, 1954, the name "Land Cruiser" was
chosen.

In 1955, 23 Land Cruisers were exported to Saudi Arabia.  The vehicles proved to
be wildly popular and exports grew steadily

On Feb 21, 1956, the first two Land Cruisers were exported to Venezuela.  These
were quickly followed exports to Burma, Malaysia, and Puerto Rico.

Toyota entered the African market by sending Crowns and Land Cruisers to
Ethiopia.  Because marketing proved difficult with the large number of languages
spoken in Africa, Toyota was forced to adopt the sales technique of driving a
sample vehicle all over Africa.

The U.S.A. was somewhat different in that in 1957, it received two Crowns before any Land
Cruisers.  However, the Crowns were found to perform poorly at the higher speeds
of American Interstates.  Toyota was forced to halt passenger car importing in
1960, leaving only the Land Cruiser to bear the company's name in the United
States.

Toyota did not make the same mistake in Australia.  The first vehicles sent
there were Land Cruisers.  They arrived in July 1959, and were marketed by
Theiss Sales as commercial vehicles.

Toyota began to market the Model DA60 truck, its first powered by a diesel
engine, in March 1957.  However, brand loyalty was strong in Japan so Toyota was
forced to establish links to Hino Motors, a diesel truck manufacturer.  Hino
would later provide the B and H series diesel engines used in Land Cruisers.

In May, 1959, Toyota do Brasil began Land Cruiser assembly in Brazil.  This was
the first case of knock-down kits being assembled outside Japan.  Land Cruiser
assembly started in 1963 in Venezuela, 1970 in Indonesia and Pakistan (although
Pakistanni production was terminated in 1986), and 1977 in Kenya, and 1982 in
Bangladesh.

Toyota's first exports to Europe were to Denmark, in 1964.  That was quickly
followed by exports to Finland, the Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland, Great
Britain, France, Italy, Austria, Greece, and finally, Germany.

It was not until 1964 that Toyota came to Canada.  The first vehicles imported
were the Crown, Land Cruiser, and Publica.  The Publica proved to be unsuitable
for the Canadian climate and was quickly withdrawn; however, by 1971, Toyota had
become the number one import brand in Canada.

Throughout the history of Toyota, it was the Land Cruiser that led the way into
new export markets and proved Toyota toughness.

Introduction
============
Land Cruisers models are identified by an alphanumeric code.  The code
consists of the engine series designation letter(s) and the frame desgination
number separated by a the letter "J." For example a 2 door with short wheel
base and a 2F gasoline engine would be a FJ40.  There are also auxilliary
codes that follow the main model code and give further information about the
vehicle.  For instance, the code FJ40LV-KCW is the vehicle mentioned above
produced between 01/75 and 07/80 with left hand drive, 4 Speed Transmission,
Hardtop, Rear "ambulance" doors, and no roll bar produced for the European
market.  The extra codes are necessary because of the huge number of
variations of each vehicle offered world-wide.  There were 2500 versions of
the 60 series alone.  All the North American & most Australian Codes are
described later in the FAQ.  The only exception to the naming convention is the
1951 BJ.


Body Styles
===========
All Land Cruiser bodies (Except the Bundera and the 45 Wagon) are made by
Araco (Formerly Arakawa), a division of Toyota.  Araco also manufactures the
interiors for Land Cruisers, Lexuses, and other Toyota cars and trucks.
Toyota manufactures the Bundera/LandCruiser II, and Gifu Body manufactured the
45 Wagon.  The remainder of the vehicle (except in some cases the engines) is
manufactured at Toyota's Honsya plant (Factory code A11)

SERIES  DESCRIPTION
AK-10   Predecessor to the Land Cruiser
B-85    Very First Land Cruiser!  Flat fenders, round rear wheel wells,
        vertical front grille
25      Looks more like 40 series except with no turn signals on the fenders
        round rear wheel wells and no headlight bezel
25 P    Pickup version of above
28      Similar to above with a longer wheelbase
28 V    Wagon version of above
35      Very similar to a 25
38      Wagon
40      2 Door with removable hard/soft top, folding windshield
41      Same as above
42      Essentially identical to 40 series
43 V    Slightly Longer 40.
43 W    2 Door version of the 45 Wagon
44      2 Door even longer wheelbase 40 (40 sized side windows followed by
        smaller ones
45 C    Cab & Chassis
   L    Pick-up with square bed with tie-down loops on sides, removable
        hard/soft top
   S    Pick-up with rounded bed with bevel on top rim like a 40.
        Had fixed hardtop until approx 1964 then removable hardtop
   W    4 door 40 series, permanent top.
   T    VERY long 2 door 40 with 2 sets of 40 style side windows on HT
46      Same as 45T except with 5 speed transmission & upgraded frame
47 V    VERY long 2 door with 2 sets of 40 style side windows on HT
47 L    Identical to 45 Series except with H series engine
47 C    Cab & Chassis
55      Wagon with narrower appearance than 40 series.  Front grille looks
        like <
60      Square bodied wagon with a pair of round headlights
61      Similar to above except with a turbo
62      Square bodied wagon with 2 pairs of rectangular headlights
70      Square body 2 door with non-removable doors/hard top, sloping
        windshield and fenders that are a cross of a 40 and a 60.
70 LD   Light Duty (Called "Bundera" in Australia) - 70 Series with 2L-T diesel
        or 22R gas engine, lighter axles used in the pickup (with the 8" ring
        gear), removable hard/soft top, and coil springs.
        Bundera means "Rock Wallaby" in an aboriginal language
71      Essentially identical to the 70 series.        
73      Troop Carrier like 70 series with 2 doors but longer body/wheelbase
        Permanent steel hard top
73 LD   Longer wheelbase version of the 70 LD detailed above
74      Similar to 73 except with turbo engine
75 P    Square bodied pickup with removable steel top
75 V    Square bodied wagon with 2 doors and 2 windows per side in the rear
75 C    Cab & Chassis
80      Current rounded wagon
90      AKA "Challenger"  Not really a Land Cruiser, just a re-badged/re-bodied
        IFS POS 4Runner.
MEGA    Copy of a Hummer complete with gear reduction hubs, 4WS, Inboard 4
        wheel disc brakes, Torsen LSD's _WITH_LOCKS_, adjustable rear tire
        pressure

Availability (Model Year)
-------------------------
SERIES      AUS     CANADA   U.S.   JAPAN
AK-10       .....   .....    .....  42-?
B-85        .....   .....    .....  51-54
25          .....   NA?      58-59  55-59
28          .....   .....    .....  .....
40          ??-84   60-84    60-83  60-84
42          81-84   81-84    NA     81-84
43          .....   NA       NA     .....
45 L        ??-84   63-80%   63-67+ .....
   S        .....   63-67?   63-67+ .....
   W        .....   63?-68   63-67+ .....
46          .....   NA       NA     .....
47          81-84   NA       NA     .....
55          .....   68-80    68-80  .....
60          ??-90   80-87    80-87  .....
61          86-90   NA       NA     .....
62          85-90   88-89    88-89  .....
70          85-     85-87    NA     85-90 
   LD       85-92   NA       NA     .....
73          85-90   NA       NA     .....
74          85-90   NA       NA
75 P        85-     90?-#    NA     .....
   W        85-     NA       NA     .....
80          90-     92-      90-    .....

+Some 67's were rebadged as '68's
%Industrial use only 81-89?
#Industrial use only

Specifications
--------------
        OVERALL  WHEELBASE  TRACK       SPRINGS  SPR LEN*     HANG WID#
SERIES  LENGTH   MM    IN   FR/RR MM    FR  RR   FR    RR     FR   RR
B-85    3835     2285   90              LF  LF
25      3838     2285   90  1390/1350   LF  LF
40      3680     2285   90  1404/1400   LF  LF   1070  1070   686   970
42      3680     2285   90  1404/1400   LF  LF   1070  1070   686   970
43      4038     2430   96  1404/1400   LF  LF   1070  1265   686   970
45 L    4760     2950  116  1404/1400   LF  LF   1070  1265   686   970
   W    4630     2650  104  1404/1400   LF  LF   1070  1265   686   970
   S    4651     2641  104  1404/1400   LF  LF                686   970
47      4760     2950  116  1404/1400   LF  LF   1070  1265   686   970
55      4637     2700  106  1404/1400   LF  LF   1070  1155   686   970
60      4576     2730  108  1485/1470   LF  LF   1058  1160   796  1030
62      4576     2730  108  1485/1470   LF  LF   1058  1160   796  1030
70      3476     2310   90  1415/1400   LF  LF   1087  1156   640   940
   LD   3476     2310   90              CO  CO
73                          1425/1420   LF  LF
   LD                                   CO  CO
75 P    4995     2980       1415/1400   LF  LF   1087  1156   640   940
   W    4885     2980       1415/1400   LF  LF   1087  1282   640   940
80      4780     2850  112  1595/1600   CO  CO
MEGA    200.4          134              CO  CO

*SPR LEN (Spring Length) is defined as the distance between the centrelines of
the front and rear hangers for a spring.

#HANG WID is the lateral distance between spring hangers.

Stock Curb Weights (lbs)
SERIES ENGINE  B     3B     F     2F    1FZE  1HD-FT
25                          3142
40 HT                       3470  3792
40 ST                       3265
80                                      4760
MEGA                                          6284

Engines 
=======

Gas Engines
-----------
Gas Land Cruiser engines are manufactured by Toyota.  
The F and 2F engines were also used in Toyota Forklifts.
The F engine is supposed to be based on the Chevy 225 I-6 "Cast Iron Wonder" 
and some of the bottom end along with the water pump and several other
components are supposed to be interchangeable.
The main differences between the F and the 2F are the 2F's larger bore,
the F's 2 compression and 2 oil rings versus the 2F's 2 compression and single
oil ring and the fact that the F had two oil paths--through the filter or
through the engine compared to the 2F where all oil had to travel through the
filter before the engine.

Diesel Engines
--------------
Most of the diesels are made by Hino industries, a sub-contractor for Toyota.
Similar engines were used in Hino heavy trucks which are used in Canada, so
the drivetrain of Hino trucks may be adaptable.  Hino engines similar to the B
and 3B are supposed to be used to run the refrigerator units on some 
refrigerated semi trailers.  Some of the B diesels are manufactured by
Daihatsu and can be identified by the letter "D" on the timing cover.

Most diesels in Japan and Canada are 24V and therefore meet NATO
military specs.  However, Canadian 1985 (85/10) BJ70's and all Canadian
BJ60's are 12V.  In Europe, all diesels larger than 4 cylinders are 24V
except for in the 80 series which uses a 24/12V Series/Parallel switch
to allow 24V starting and 12V while running.  Australian diesels are all
12V.

The B, H, and 2H were also used in Toyota Forklifts, Dyna and Coaster buses.

Other Engine Suppliers
----------------------
Portugese BJ73's use a VM engine made by the Italian company Stabilimenti
Meccanici VM S.p.A.  South African HJ75's use an Atlantis Diesel Engine licensed
from Perkins.  The Brazilian made Bandeirantes use a Mercedes diesel engine.

Engine Specifications
---------------------
Legend
  FUEL
    ID - Indirect Injection Diesel
    DD - Direct Injection Diesel
    T - Turbo
    EFIG - Gas Electronic Fuel Injection

        DISP                       TORQUE             BORExSTROKE  COMP
LETTER  (CC)  CYL  FUEL  HP@RPM    FT-LB@RPM  VALVES  (mm) (mm)    RATIO
B (GAS) 3386  4    G      85@3600  159@????   8 OHV    84x102     6.4:1

B       2977  4    ID     80@3600  141@2200   8 OHV    95x105      21:1
2B      3168  4    ID     93@3600? 159@2200   8 OHV    98x105      21:1
3B      3431  4    ID     90@3500  159@2200   8 OHV   102x105      20:1
13B-T   3431  4    TDD   120@3400  210@2000   8 OHV   102x105    17.6:1
15B-T   41xx  4    TDD   150@?     288@1800   8 OHV 

F (-60) 3878  6    G     105@3200  189@2000   12 OHV   90x102      6.8:1
F (60-) 3878  6    G     125@3600  209@2000   12 OHV   90x102      7.5:1
2F      4230  6    G     135@3600  210@1800   12 OHV   94x102      7.8:1
3F      3955  6    G     155@4000  219@3000   12 OHV   94x95
3F-EFI  3955  6    EFIG  155@4200  220@2200   12 OHV   94x95       8.1:1

1FZ-??? 4477  6    G     138@????  Low compression engine for low grade fuel
1FZ-F   4477  6    G     190@4400  268@2800   24DOHC   100x95      9.0:1
1FZ-FE  4477  6    EFIG  212@4600  275@3000   24DOHC   100x95      9.0:1

H       3576  6    ID     90@3600  151@2200   12 OHV   88x98      21.0:1
H       3576  6    ID     95@3600  159@2200   12 OHV   88x98      19.5:1
2H      3980  6    ID    103@3500  177@2000   12 OHV   91x102     20.7:1
12H-T   3980  6    TID   135@3500  231@2000   12 OHV   91x102     18.6:1

1HD-T   4163  6    TID   165@3600  268@2000   12SOHC   94x100     18.6:1
1HD-FT  4163  6    TID   168@3600  280@2500   24SOHC   94x100     18.6:1
1HZ     4163  6    ID    135@4000  187@2200   12SOHC   94x100     22.7:1

1KZ-T   2982  4    TID   125@3600  218@2000    8       96x103     21.2:1
1KZ-TE  2982  4    EID   130@3600  213@2000    8       96x103     21.2:1
   
2L      2446  4    ID     72@4000  115@2200    8SOHC   92x92      22.3:1
2L-T    2446  4    TID    86@4000  139@2400    8SOHC   92x92      20.0:1
2L-TII  2446  4    TID    90@4000  159@2400    8SOHC   92x92      21.0:1

1PZ     3469  5    ID    115@4000  170@2600   10SOHC   94x100     22.7:1

22R     2367  4    G     105@4800  136@2800    8SOHC   92x89       9.0:1
22R-E   2367  4    EFIG  114@4600  192@3400    8SOHC   92x89       9.0:1

OTHER
STABILIMENTI MECCANICI VM (ITALY)
VM66A   2494  5    ID    108@4200  220@1600   10 OHC   88x92      22.0:1

ATLANTIS DIESEL (SOUTH AFRICA)
ADE236  3860       DD     80@2800  220@1400    8 OHV   98x127     16.0:1

MERCEDES BENZ (BRAZILIAN BANDEIRANTE)
OM314   3784       DD     85@2800  235@1800    8 OHV   97x128     17.0:1
OM364   3972       DD     90@2800  235@1800    8 OHV   98x133     17.3:1


        _AVAILABILITY (MODEL YEAR)_
LETTER  AUS     CANADA  U.S.   JAPAN
B               78-80   NA     74-80
2B                             80-82
3B      81-90   81-87   NA     81-90
13B-T   ??-90   NA      NA     84-90

F       58?-74  58?-74         55-74
2F      75-84   75-87          74-87
3F      84-92   NA      NA     
3F-EFI  88-92   88-92          88-92

1FZ-FE  93-     93-           93-

2H      81-90   85-87   NA    80-90
12H-T   86-90   NA      NA    86-90

1HD-T   90-95   NA      NA    91-
1HD-FT  95-
1HZ     90-     95-+    NA    91-

2L              81-84   81-83 83-87
2L-T    86-93   84-85*  NA    84-87
2L-T-II

1PZ     90-93   ??91-+

22R     84-92   81-88#  81-88#

*In Toyota Diesel Pickups
#In Toyota Pickups
+Industrial Use Only

ENGINE/CHASSIS COMBINATIONS (PRODUCTION YEAR)
=============================================
      B(GAS) F
10    .....  .....
BJ    51-53  .....
25    54-59  55-59
28    .....  58-59
   V  .....  58-59
35    .....  56-59


      B     2B     3B   13B-T F     2F    H     2H
40    74-78 ..... ..... ..... 60-74 74-84 ..... .....
   V  74-78 ..... ..... ..... 61-74 74-84 ..... .....
41    ..... 79-81 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
42    ..... ..... 81-84 ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
43    74-81 ..... 81-84 ..... 60-74 74-84 ..... .....
44    ..... 79-81 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
   V  ..... 80-81 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
45 C  ..... ..... 81-84 ..... 61-74 74-86 72-80 .....
45 L  ..... ..... 81-84 ..... 61-74 74-85 72-80 .....
   S  ..... ..... ..... ..... 61-74 74-85 ..... .....
   W  ..... ..... ..... ..... 60-68 ..... ..... .....
46    ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
47 L  ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 80-85
47 C  ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 80-84
55 W  ..... 79-80 ..... ..... 67-74 74-79 ..... .....


     3B    13B-T 2F    3F-EFI 2H
60   81-89 ..... 80-84 .....  .....
61                            86-89
62                     85-89  80-89

     3B    13B-T 15B-T 2F    3F-EFI 1FZ-FE 2H    12H-T 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HZ  1PZ 
70   84-89 ..... ..... 84-85 85-92  93-    ..... ..... 90-   ...... 93-  90-
71   ..... 87-89 ..... ..... .....  .....  ..... ..... ..... ...... 93-  ...
72   ..... ..... ..... ..... .....  .....  ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ...
73   84-89 ..... ..... 84-85 85-93  93-    ..... ..... 90-   ...... 93-  90-
74   ..... 87-89 ..... ..... .....  .....  ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ...
75   84-89 ..... ..... ..... 85-92  93-    85-89 ..... 90-   ...... .... 90-
77   ..... ..... ..... ..... .....  .....  ..... ..... 90-   ...... 93-  90-
78   ..... ..... ..... ..... .....  .....  ..... ..... ..... ...... 93-  ...
80   ..... ..... ..... ..... 90-92  93-    ..... ..... 90-   95-    90-  ...
MEGA ..... ..... 95-   ..... .....  .....  ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ...


      2L    2L-T  2L-T-II 1KZ-T 1KZ-TE 22R   22R-E
70 LD 84-86 86-90 90-     ..... .....  84-88 88-
71 LD ..... ..... 91-93   ..... .....  ..... ...
72 LD ..... 86-90 90-93   ..... .....  ..... ...
73 LD ..... 88-90 90-     ..... .....  ..... 88-
77 LD 90-93 ..... .....   ..... .....  ..... ...
78 LD ..... ..... 91-93   ..... .....  ..... ...


Performance/Fuel Economy
========================
                       0-100km/h   Fuel Ecomomy (l/100km)
BJ40 4SPD 4.11 diff    29.9s       13.0 
BJ42 4SPD 4.11 diff    24.4s       13.7 
FJ40 4SPD 3.70 diff    18.7s       18.6 
FJ60 4SPD 3.70 diff    16.3s       17.4 
HJ60 4SPD 3.70 diff    22.7s       12.5
MEGA AUTO                          25.3MPG@37MPH

Transmissions & Transfer Cases
==============================
The H4X transmissions used with the gas engies use a 275mm clutch and have an
output shaft that is 1-1/16" in diameter and has 10 splines.  H41
transmissions were never offered on US model Cruisers but may have been
available in some Canadian 45 series pickups.  The transmissions for B diesels
use a 1-1/2" longer input shaft with different splines and will not mate to
either an F or H series engine.

When the four speed was introduced in 1974, the transfer case ratio was
raised and new helical cut gears were used that were wider and quieter
than the earlier model.  Until 1981, parking brake was mounted on the
driveline after the transfer cases.  In 1981, the new split-case
transfer case was introduced.  It featured a stronger idler shaft and
the parking brake was moved to become part of the rear drum brakes.


Transmission & Transfer Case Ratios (All :1)
--------------------------------------------
MODEL  ENGINE DATES  SPDS 1ST   2ND   3RD   4TH   5TH   R     TFR LW TFR
?FJ25? F             4    5.41  3.12  1.77  1.000       5.44  NONE   SPLINES
J30    F      69-75  3    2.757 1.691 1.000             3.676 2.313  10
H41    F             4    4.925 2.643 1.519 1.000       4.925 1.992  16
H41?   B      75-80  4    5.299 2.843 1.634 1.000       5.299 1.959  16
H42    F,B    73-75  4    3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000       4.271 1.992  16
              75-80  4    3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000       4.271 1.959  16
              81-82  4    3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000       4.271 2.276  19
H55F   F,B    83-    5    4.843 2.619 1.516 1.000 0.845 4.843 1.959  19
H150F  HZ            5    4.529 2.464 1.490 1.000 0.881 4.313 2.488
H151F  FZ,HD         5    4.081 2.294 1.490 1.000 0.881 4.313 2.488
A440F                3                                       2.488
A442F  FZ,HD         4    2.950 1.530 1.000 0.765       2.678 2.488
????   L, 2L         5    3.928 2.333 1.451 1.000 0.851 4.743 2.276
150R   2L-T          5    4.313 2.330 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 2.295
????   2L-T, 1KZ-T   5    3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 2.296
????   1KZ-T, 1KZ-TE 5    3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 1.959

Axles
=====
Regular Land Cruiser axle housings are similar to a Ford 9" and differential
carriers are similar in construction to a Chevy 12bolt.  The front and rear
differential housings are both offset to the right in all models except some
'58-62's which were centred.  They have an 9.5" ring gear.  The axle shafts
are 33mm in diameter (the same as a some Dana 60's) 1960-67 shafts had
10 coarse splines while 68 and later shafts have 30 fine splines.  In
1968, the front axle CV joints changed from ball joints to Birfield.
Full Floating Axles have smaller shafts because the entire weight of the
truck is bourne by the wheel bearings and the shaft itself is not loaded
in flexure.

Light Duty axle housings are the same as those used in Toyota Pickup trucks.
They feature a smaller housing constructed similarly to the heavy duty Land
Cruiser.  The ring gear is only 8" but the axle shafts are the same size and
have the same number of splines as the regular Land Cruiser.

All Land Cruisers produced after 1991 use the 8" ring gear in the front and the
9.5" ring gear in the rear.

60/2 Series axles are 70mm wider than 40 series
70 Series axles are 20mm wider than 40 series

AXLE CODES
----------
Example: K 08 2
         ^ ^^ ^-2 pinions!?
         | ++---4.11 ring/pinion ratio
         +------9.5" ring gear

First digit: ring gear size
G  8"
J  9.25"
K  9.5"

Second, third digits: ring/pinion gear ratio

01 3.30
02 3.36
03 3.545
04 3.556
05 3.70    HD Cruiser
06 3.889
07 3.90    HD Cruiser
08 4.111   HD Cruiser
09 4.222
10 4.375
11 4.444
12 4.625
13 4.79
14 4.875   LD Cruiser
15 5.125
16 5.286
17 5.60
18 5.714
19 5.833
20 6.167
21 6.667
22 6.78
23 6.833
24 7.64
25 4.556   LD Cruiser, Aftermarket HD Cruiser
26 5.571
27 3.364
28 4.30    LD Cruiser
29 4.10
30 3.727   HD Cruiser
31 3.909
32 6.591 or 5.583
33 7.503 or 5.583
34 6.781 or 4.786
35 7.636 or 5.60
36 4.778
37 3.583
38 3.417
   4.88   Aftermarket HD Cruiser

Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no

Code    pinions 
2       2       open
3       2       LS
4       4       Locking Diff
5       4       LS

Production Codes
================

ABBREVIATIONS USED
AUS Australia
CAN Canada
NA  North America
USA ? :)

5F  5 Speed Manual
4F  4 Speed Manual
IV  Incomplete Vehicle (Usually Cab/Chassis Only)
SOB Swing Out Back Door
LUB Lift Up Back Door
RB  Roll Bar
PU  Pickup
ST  Soft Top
SRF Low Roof
HRF High Roof

CODE      ENG     PRODUCTION   NOTES
BJ40
LV-KCJK   B       3/78-7/80    CAN 4F SOB RB

BJ42
LV-KCJK   3B      8/80-10/82   CAN 4F SOB RB
LV-MCJK   3B      10/82-10/84  CAN 5F SOB RB
RV-KCQ    3B      8/80-10/82   AUS 4F SOB RB
RV-MCQ    3B      10/82-10/84  AUS 5F SOB

BJ60
LV-KK     3B      8/80-10/81   CAN 4F
LG-KK     3B      10/81-10/82  CAN 4F
LG-MK     3B      10/82-10/85  CAN 5F

BJ70
LV-MRK    3B      11/84-8/86   CAN 5F 12V LX
LV-MNK    3B      8/86-7/87    CAN 5F LX
RV-MRQ    3B      11/84-1/90   AUS 5F HT

BJ73
RV-MRQ    3B      11/84-8/86   AUS 5F HT
RV-MRQ    2B      8/86-1/90    AUS 5F HT LX

BJ74
RV-PRXQ   13BT    10/85-8/86   AUS AUTO HT
RV-MNXQ   13BT    8/86-1/90    AUS 5F HT L
RV-MRXQ   13BT    10/85-8/86   AUS 5F HT 
RV-PNXQ   13BT    8/86-1/90    AUS AUTO HT LX
RV-PEXQ   13BT    8/86-8/88    AUS AUTO HT VX

FJ40
L-A       F       3/69-1/75    NA ST
LV-A      F       3/69-1/75    NA HT LUB 
LV-AC     F       4/72-1/75    NA HT SOB 
L-KJA     2F      1/75-2/76    NA ST RB
L-KJA     2F      2/76-7/80    USA 4F ST RB
L-KJA     2F      8/80-10/81   USA 4F ST RB
LV-KCJA   2F      1/75-2/76    NA  4F HT SOB
LV-KCJA   2F      2/76-7/80    NA  4F HT SOB RB
LV-KCJA   2F      8/80-9/83    USA 4F SOB RB
LV-KJA    2F      2/76-7/80    NA  4F HT
LV-KCJK   2F      2/76-7/80    CAN 4F HT SOB RB
LV-KCJK   2F      8/80-10/81   CAN 4F HT SOB RB
LV-KJK    2F      2/76-9/77    CAN 4F ST
KJA       2F      8/80-11/81   NA
LV-KCJA   2F      8/80-9/83    NA
LV-KCJK   2F      8/80-10/81   CAN
R-KJC     2F      8/80-10/82   AUS 4F ST
R-MJQ     2F      10/82-10/84  AUS 5F ST
RV-KQ     2F      8/80-10/82   AUS 4F LUB
RV-KCQ    2F      8/80-10/82   AUS 4F SOB
RV-MCQ    2F      10/82-10/84  AUS 5F SOB
RV-KCQ    2F      8/80-10/84   AUS 4F TROOP SOB

FJ45
LP-KK     2F      6/76-7/80    CAN 4F PU
R-KJQ     2F      8/80-10/82   AUS 4F PU ST
RP-KQ     2F      8/80-10/84   AUS 4F PU
RP-KQ3    2F      8/80-10/82   AUS 4F PU IV

FJ55
LG        F       3/69-1/75    NA
LG-KA     2F      1/75-2/76    NA  4F
LG-KA     2F      2/76-7/80    USA 4F
LG-KK     2F      2/76-7/80    CAN 4F

FJ60
LV-KK     2F      8/80-10/81   CAN 4F
LG-KA     2F      8/80-8/87    NA  4F 'G' 
LV-KA     2F      9/86-8/87    USA 4F
RG-KQ     2F      8/80-10/82   AUS 4F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MQ     2F      10/82-11/84  AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MZQ    2F      5/83-11/84   AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RV-KCQ    2F      8/80-10/82   AUS 4F SRF SOB
RV-MCQ    2F      10/82-11/84  AUS 5F SRF SOB

FJ62
LV-PNEA   3F-E    8/87-8/88    USA AUTO
LG-PNEA   3F-E    8/87-1/90    USA AUTO 'G' 
LG-PNEK   3F-E    8/87-1/90    CAN AUTO 'G'
RG-MQ     3F      11/84-8/87   AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MZQ    3F      11/84-8/87   AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RG-PQ     3F      11/84-8/87   AUS AUTO SRF LUB 'G'
RG-PZQ    3F      11/84-8/87   AUS AUTO HRF LUB 'G'
RG-MRCQ   3F      8/87-1/90    AUS 5F SRF SOB
RG-MNQ    3F      8/87-1/90    AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-PNQ    3F      8/87-1/90    AUS AUTO SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MNZQ   3F      8/87-8/88    AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RG-MEZQ   3F      8/88-1/90    AUS 5F HRF LUB VX
RG-PEZQ   3F      8/87-1/90    AUS AUTO HRF LUB VX
RV-MCQ    3F      11/84-8/87   AUS 5F SRF SOB
RV-PCQ    3F      11/84-10/85  AUS 5F SRF SOB

FJ70
RV-MRQ    3F      11/84-1/90   AUS 5F HT

FJ73
RV-MRQ    3F      11/84-8/86   AUS 5F HT
RV-PRQ    3F      10/85-8/86   AUS AUTO HT
RV-MNQ    3F      8/86-1/90    AUS 5F HT LX
RV-MNQ    3F      1/90-8/91    AUS 5F HT LX
RV-PNQ    3F      8/86-1/90    AUS AUTO HT LX
RV-MEQ    3F      8/86-8/88    AUS 5F HT VX
RV-PEQ    3F      8/86-1/90    AUS AUTO HT VX

FJ75
RV-MRQ    3F      11/84-1/90   AUS 5F HT TROOP
RV-MRQ    3F      1/90-8/92    AUS 5F HT TROOP
RP-MRQ3   3F      11/84-1/90   AUS 5F PIC IV
RP-MRQ3   3F      1/90-8/92    AUS 5F IV
RV-MRKQ   1FZFE   8/92-        AUS 5F HT TROOP
RP-MRKQ3  1FZFE   8/92-        AUS 5F IV

FJ80
L-GNPNEA  3F-E    1/90-8/92    NA  AUTO
R-GCMRSQ  3F      1/90-8/92    AUS 5F      SOB
R-GNMNSQ  3F      1/90-8/92    AUS 5F      LUB GXL
R-GNPNEQ  3F-E    1/90-8/92    AUS AUTO    LUB GXL
R-GNPEEQ  3F-E    1/90-8/92    AUS AUTO    LUB VX 

FZJ80
L-GNPEKA  1FZ-FE  8/92-        NA  AUTO
R-GCMRKQ  1FZ-FE  8/92-1/95    AUS 5F   SOB
R-GNMNKQ  1FZ-FE  8/92-        AUS 5F   LUB GXL
R-GNPNKQ  1FZ-FE  8/92-        AUS AUTO LUB GXL
R-GNPEKQ  1FZ-FE  8/92-        AUS AUTO LUB VX

HJ47
RV-KCQ   2H       8/80-10/84   AUS 4F TROOP SOB
RP-KQ    2H       8/80-10/84   AUS 4F PIC
RP-KQ3   2H       8/80-10/84   AUS 4F PIC IV

HJ60
LG-MK    2H       10/85-8/87   CAN 5F
LG-PK    2H       10/85-8/87   CAN AUTO
RG-KQ    2H       8/80-10/82   AUS 4F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MQ    2H       10/82-8/87   AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MNQ   2H       8/87-1/90    AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MRCQ  2H       8/87-1/90    AUS 5F SRF SOB
RG-MZQ   2H       5/83-10/85   AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RG-PQ    2H       11/84-10/85  AUS AUTO SRF LUB 'G'
RG-PZQ   2H       11/84-8/87   AUS AUTO HRF LUB 'G'
RV-KCQ   2H       8/80-10/82   AUS 4F SRF SOB
RV-MCQ   2H       10/82-8/87   AUS 5F SRF SOB
RV-PCQ   2H       11/84-10/85  AUS AUTO SRF SOB

HJ61
RG-MXQ   12HT     10/85-8/87   AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MZXQ  12HT     10/85-8/87   AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RG-PXQ   12HT     10/85-8/87   AUS AUTO SRF LUB 'G' 
RG-PZXQ  12HT     10/85-8/87   AUS AUTO HRF LUB 'G'
RG-MNXQ  12HT     8/87-1/90    AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-PNXQ  12HT     8/87-1/90    AUS AUTO SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MNZXQ 12HT     8/87-8/88    AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RG-MEZXQ 12HT     8/88-1/90    AUS 5F HRF LUB VX
RG-PEZXQ 12HT     8/87-1/90    AUS AUTO HRF LUB VX

HJ75 
RV-MRQ   2H       11/84-1/90   AUS 5F HT TROOP   
RV-RRQ   2H       11/84-1/90   AUS 5F HT PIC     
RV-MRQ3  2H       11/84-1/90   AUS 5F HT PIC IV

HDJ80
R-GNMNXQ   1HDT   1/90-1/95    AUS 5F LUB GXL
R-GNPNXQ   1HDT   1/90-1/95    AUS AUTO LUB GXL
R-GNMEXQ   1HDT   1/90-1/95    AUS 5F LUB VX
R-GNPEXQ   1HDT   1/90-1/95    AUS AUTO  LUB VX
R-GNMNWQ   1HDFT  1/95-        AUS 5F LUB GXL
R-GNPNWQ   1HDFT  1/95-        AUS AUTO LUB GXL
R-GNPEWQ   1HDFT  1/95-        AUS AUTO LUB VX

HZJ70
RV-MRQ   1HZ      1/90-1/95    AUS 5F HT      

HZJ73
RV-MNQ   1HZ      1/90-8/91    AUS 5F HT LX
RV-PNQ   1HZ      1/90-8/91    AUS AUTO HT LX

HZJ75
RP-MRQ   1HZ      1/90-        AUS 5F IV 
RP-MRQ3  1HZ      1/90-        AUS 5F IV

HZJ80 
R-GCMRSQ 1HZ      1/90-        AUS 5F SOB
R-GNMNSQ 1HZ      1/90-        AUS 5F LUB GXL

LJ70
RV-MRXQ  2LT      10/85-8/86   AUS 5F HT BUNDERA
RV-MNXQ  2LT      8/86-1/90    AUS 5F HT BUNDERA LX
RV-MNXQ  2LT      1/90-8/92    AUS 5F HT BUNDERA LX
RV-MEXQ  2LT      8/86-8/88    AUS 5F HT BUNDERA VX

PZJ70
RV-MRQ   1PZ      1/90-5/93    AUS 4F HT
RV-MNQ   1PZ      1/90-5/93    AUS 5F HT LX

RJ70  
R-MRQ    22R      11/84-8/88   AUS 5F ST BUNDERA
RV-MRQ   22R      11/84-8/86   AUS 5F HT BUNDERA  
RV-MNQ   22R      8/86-1/90    AUS 5F HT BUNDERA LX
RV-MNQ   22R      1/90-8/91    AUS 5F HT BUNDERA LX
RV-MEQ   22R      11/84-8/86   AUS 5F HT BUNDERA VX

Body Colour Codes
=================
CODE  COLOUR NAME          YEARS OFFERED (ONLY 79+ KNOWN)
012   Cygnus White       
113   Health Grey          
309   Freeborn Red         79-84
414   Buffalo Brown        
415   Pueblo Brown
416   Dune Beige
464   Beige
474   Dark Copper
4G8   Light Beige Irrid.
611   Dark Green
621   Rustic Green (Dark)
622   Nebula Green
653   Olive Green
681   Green
808   Horizontal Blue
822   Royal Blue
854   Blue (sky blue)
857   Nordic Blue/Feel Like Blue (dark blue)

Decoding your ID plates
=======================
I'll describe the various ID plate types with their usual location in brackets.
Keep in mind, I've only seen North American plates so yours may be quite
different.

Pre-1974 ID Plate (Fender)
+-----------------------------------------+
|O            T O Y O T A                O|
| MODEL FJ40L                             |
|  ___    ENGINE MODEL          F         |
| |tep|   NUMBER OF CYLINDERS   6         |
|  ~~~    BORE                  3.54 in   |
|         STROKE                4.00 in   |
|         PISTON DISPLACEMENT   237 cu.in |
|       NO.  FJ40-000000                  |
|O        TOYOTA MOTOR CO., LTD.         O|
+-----------------------------------------+

1974+ FJ55 (FENDER)
+-----------------------------------------+
|O            T O Y O T A                O|
|   MODEL FJ55LG-KK                       |
|   ENGINE 2F           4230cc/257.9cu.in |
|   FRAME No. FJ55-86909                  |
|   COLOR/TRIM                            |
|   TRANS/AXLE                            |
|   PLANT/G.V.W.                    MADE  |
|        JAPANESE...                 IN   |
|O  tep   TOYOTA MOTOR CO., LTD.   JAPAN O|
+-----------------------------------------+

40 Series Specific Info
=======================

Production Timeline (US/Canada)
-------------------------------
MODEL
YEAR  ENG  TRANSMISSION   TRANSFER  OTHER
1960  F    3-on the tree  2.313:1   Start of prodution
                                    Small round FR turn signals
                                    Single brake master cyl resevoir
1963       3 on the floor (Option)
1964                                Flip-up roof vent removed
1965                                Larger side windows and corner
                                      windows added
1968                                30 fine spline axles replace 10 coarse

                                      splines
                                    Birfield joints replace ball joints in FR
                                    Siamese centre exhaust ports replaced
                                    One piece manifold gasket added
                                    Cable throttle linkage replaces rod
                                    Padded Dash                 fs
                                    Vin plate on door pillars
1969                                "Improved" steering centre arm
                                    Small Rectangular FR turn signals
                                    Replaceable element oil filter replaced
                                      with cartridge type (03/69)
1970                                Dual resevoir master cyl
                                    Dual horns
1971                                Power Brakes (07/70)
1972       3 on the floor STD       Smog pump appears (09/72)
1973                                Separate model for Calif introduced (09/73)
                                    EGR system added (09/73)
                                    Saftey catch added on hood
                                    Ignition switch moved to steering
                                      column
                                    Factory AM radio
                                    Stronger steering box
1974  2F   4 SPD          1.999:1   Larger universal joints & flanges
                                    Rectangular RR brake lights/turn signals
                                    RR lower shock bolt moves from axle to U-
                                      bolt bracket
                                    Clutch changed from coil spring type to
                                      diaphragm (08/74)
                                    Longest production run of any LC (9/73-
                                    12/74)
1975                      1.959:1   Thicker side doors
                                    Ambulance doors replace lift/tailgate
                                    LG Square FR Turn Signals/side markers
                                    Wipers move to bottom of windshield
                                    Muffler moved from between frame
                                      rails to under rear tub
1976                                FR disk brakes
                                    Larger brifields
                                    Front outer axle shafts changed from 10
                                      coarse splines to 30 fine splines
                                    Front spindles and bearings enlarged
1977                                Tubular spare tire mount (09/76)
                                    Pop-out rear windows (08/76)
1978  2F,B                          Diesel comes to Canada
                                    Fine spline pinion flange (1/78)
1979                                3.73:1 Diff becomes standard on FJ
                                    22 gal under-floor fuel tank
                                    Improved exhaust manifold
                                    Power steering
                                    Air conditioning
                                    Reclining Seats
                                    Catalytic converter
                                    Fewer, larger body mounts
                                    Squared off headlight bezel
1981 2F,3B                2.276     3B comes to Canada
                                    Larger shackles, hangers & frame gussets
                                    Split case transfer case
                                    New RR brakes with 11.8" drums and single
                                      self-adjusting wheel cylinder (8/80)
                                    Parking brake moved from rear of TFR to
                                      rear drums
                                    Warn front hubs replaced with stainless
                                     steel Aisin units
                                    Front outer axle shafts shortened
                                    Rear heater moves under center console
                                    "Shield" shaped steering wheel centre
                                    Locking "Pocket"
                                    Chrome window weather stripping replaced
                                      with rubber
1983        5SPD          1.959     Dash re-designed & includes digital clock
                                    Chrome outer door felt replaced with
                                      rubber
1984                                Production CEASES! :(

Although production of the 40 Series Land Cruiser stopped in 1984, there is
still a _COPY_ in production.  It is manufactured in Brazil and is called a
Bandeirante.  It features a body/frame which is a copy of a Land Cruiser and
is powered by a Mercedes diesel motor.

55 Series Specific Info
=======================

Many of the changes on the 40 series timeline also apply to 55 series.


80 Series Specific Info
=======================

Full time 4wd
-------------
All 80 series Cruisers sold in North America and Europe are full time 4wd.  In
Africa and Australia, a part-time system is still available.  80's produced
between '90-'91 have an open center differential which is lockable in 4HI and
automatically locked in 4LO.  From '92 on, vehicles with ABS had a viscous
coupling that sent a maximum of 30% torque the non-slipping axle.  The
differential is lockable in 4HI and automatically locked in 4LO.

Locking Differentials
---------------------
Locking differentials were available as options in all 80 series.  From 94 on,
they were standard in Canada.  The operation of the lockers is very elegant.
When the differential lock dial is turned to the "Locked" position, it switches
on a small electrical servo.  The servo pushes on a dog clutch which is meshed
with the splines on the axle shaft.  The dog clutch slides along the axle shaft
and engages on the side of the differential carrier.  The axle is then
completely locked. They were offered from the procuction date 8/92 onwards.

Buying a Land Cruiser
=====================

NOTE:  This article is biased towards 40 series Land Cruisers, although it can
be applied any model.  Also, parts of this may sound a little like a sermon.
This is because for me Land Cruiser ownership goes beyond possesing a vehicle
and well into the realm of the occult.  Are YOU willing to sacrifice you life
for your Land Cruiser?

So you want to buy a Land Cruiser.  First, some words of warning.  If you're looking
at a 40 series, the vehicle will be at least 11 years old.  It was built as an
offroad vehicle and as a result has probably taken alot more of a beating than a
car of a similar vintage.  It will definitely require more upkeep than a new
vehicle.

With all Land Cruisers, newer is definitely better.  Unlike the Jeeps whose
"quality" varied widely from year to year until Chysler "neutered" them all and
Land Rovers where some Series are shunned because their headlights are in the
wrong place, Toyota was continually improving the Land Cruiser.  Check the
production timelines earlier in the FAQ to determine which features you can live
without and hence how old you're willing to go.  The only exception to this rule
is if you're living under a fascist regime such as Kalifornia where ancient
frames are prized for their smog exempt status.

Usually long before someone decides to sell a Cruiser, they decide that they
should stop pouring money into it.  Therefore, shortly after you purchase your
truck you can expect to have to dump a whole lot of money into it to fix little
things the previous owner couldn't be bothered to do.  This can be VERY
discouraging.  Don't worry.  Once you get your truck into a roadworthy state, it
will remain there for quite some time.  When I first got my truck, the fuel
gauge didn't work, most of the knobs were missing, the headlights had a nasty
habit of turning off instead of switching to high-beam, none of the interior or
signal lights worked, the u-bolt plates were cracked, the shackle pins were
about to rip out of the shackle plates, the rear tub was basically gone, along
with the bottom 2" of the hard top and rear doors.

Older Land Cruisers (Anything other than a 60 or 80) make lousy daily drivers.
They're loud, they suffer from a relatively harsh ride and vague-on road
handling, and the gas ones get lousy fuel economy.  Thanks to brick-like
aerodynamics, side-winds quickly become tail-winds.  You don't want to commute
in an FJ40.

Anyways, that said, there are some requirements that I believe a Land Cruiser
owner should meet.  They need to have a steady income.  I bought my Cruiser
while I was in university and wound up having to take a couple of years off to
work to be able to fix it up.  If you're a starving student, you're probably
better off with a mini-truck.  Parts are cheaper, and there's a whole lot more
of them so they're more "disposable"

If you've got a significant other, your relationship has to be up to the
stresses imposed by the new arrival.  It took a long time for my girlfriend to
adjust to being a "Land Cruiser widow"  If a Land Cruiser is brought into a weak
relationship, there's always the chance you won't get to keep the house--then
you'd be without a garage to work in.

Actually, a garage is pretty much required.  Lying out in the street is
hazardous and people tend to walk off with tools they find lying on the
sidewalk.

I also firmly believe that you should do EVERYTHING on your Cruiser AT LEAST
ONCE.  If you have a professional mechanic attend to all you maintenance, you'll
be out of luck when something goes wrong miles from the nearest gas station

So you've warned anyone that cares about you that you'll never see them again,
and their only contact with you will be standing in the garage yelling at the
underside of your truck.  You're mentally prepared to become the caretaker of a
disappearing breed.  Time to go shopping.

You should start scanning the local classified ads for a couple of months before
you actually begin to shop in earnest.  That way, you can begin to check out the
local price-structure.  In certain parts of the U.S. and Eastern Canada, you may
only see one Cruiser a week, if that.  Once you learn that the most ancient
truck costs more money than you have, you're ready to start making calls.

When you finally locate a truck, it's time to go for a look.  The things you
should watch for can be grouped into several categories.

Engine
------
I'm not a fan of gas truck engines, so I can't offer too much help here.  I've
heard that the intake manifold tends to crack if the truck has been overheated.

In a diesel, start by checking for coolant leaks from the hoses, water pump,
and radiator.  Next check for oil leaks from around the pushrod inspection plate
that the blow-by tube comes from, the gasket between the oil pan and the block,
and the vaccum pump if so equipped.

When the engine is fired up, watch how quickly the oil pressure builds.  If the
idle is high (the engine feels smooth instead of causing the whole truck to
shake)  There's probably either a hole in the diaphragm or the vaccum lines that
go to it.  Both are relatively cheap and easy to replace provided you buy
Nippondenso and not Toyota parts.

It is normal for a cold diesel to blow a little white smoke at start-up.  Black
smoke usually means that the injectors need service, white smoke indicates
over-injection of diesel (probably due to a perforated diaphragm), and blue smoke
shows that oil heavier than diesel is burning (Ohh ohh!)  When the truck is running,
check for excessive exhaust coming out of the blow-by tube.  The amount of
blow-by will indicate the amount of wear in the engine.  

Electrical
----------
In both gas and diesel Cruisers, check the alternator for excessive play.  A
brand new onw is worth a small fortune.  Rebuilt 12V ones are difficult to find
and 24V ones are virtually impossible.

If you find that there are accessories (radio etc. attached to only one battery
of a 24V diesel, you can expect to replace the battery shortly.

Transmission/transfer
---------------------
Check for leaks in all the gaskets and seals. Chances are, if a seal is leaking,
the bearing behind it is shot.  Ask the owner what kind of lubricant they're
using.  Synthetic gear oil will often manage to seep past a seal that's good
enough for regular oil.

Check for lateral play in the output yokes from the transfer case.  Movement
intdicates bearings that are in need of replacement.

If a 40 series has been lifted more than 2", check to make sure that the notch
in the skid plate the front drive shaft passes through has been enlarged.
Otherwise, the rearmost yoke on the front driveshaft will bang on the plate
causing the bearings in the transfer case to fail.

With the truck parked on a level surface, take out the transmission fill plug.
If gear oil pours out of the plug, the seal between the transfer case and
transmission is probably shot.  This is a cheap part, but replacing it pretty
much requires pulling the transfer and transmission.

A leak from the rear output flange of the transfer usually results in destroyed
parking brake shoes in pre-1981 transfer cases.

Driveshafts
-----------
Check for play in the universal joints.  Although a worn joint is cheap to fix,
if the truck has been driven with the excessive vibration of a failed joint for
any length of time, the transfer case and pinion bearings can suffer.  Dents in
the shafts can also cause vibrations and premature failure.  Check that the
univeral joints and slip-joints have been greased, but NOT just prior to your
arrival.  (There should be SOME dirt stuck to any traces of grease on the
zerk-fittings or around the joints)

Rear Axle
---------
Check the pinion flange for excessive play.  Usually slop here will result in an
a destroyed ring and pinion.

Pull off the drums and check for any signs of oil leaking from the seals at the
ends of the axle tubes.  Seized adjustors are an indicator of an owner that
didn't properly maintain their vehicle.

It is rare for a Cruiser to experience wheel bearing failure unless they've
REALLY been abused.

Front axle
----------
The above rules for checking the pinion bearings apply along with some potential
problems for the steering knuckles.  Check that there is a thin coating of
grease covering the knuckle balls from top to bottom.  If there is excessive
crud on the knuckles, the seals are probably shot.  If the balls are dry,
they've been run improperly lubricated for quite a while and at least the upper
knuckle bearings will be destroyed.  The age-old test of rocking the wheel back
and forth to test for play can be used to check the knuckle-bearings as they are
far more likely to go than the wheel bearings.

Steering
--------
In manual steering Cruisers, check for gear oil in the steering box by removing
the breather vent.  If there is none, the pitman-arm seal has failed and the
bearings are probably almost gone.  If there is grease in the steering box, the
seal has failed, and the owner has at least tried to extend the life of the
steering box.  It may be salvagable, but pulling the pitman arm to replace the
seal is very, very difficult.

Have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth through a 45 degree arc
while you inxpect the steering box and centre arm (on 40's-55's)  The centre arm
should rotate with no sign of "wobbling"  If the steering tends to "stay where
it's left" while driving rather than returning to centre, the seller has
probably cranked up the centre arm to try to hide slop.

Replacing worn tie-rod ends is relatively easy, but ensure that there's only
play in the ball joint and not in the threads between the rod and the end.  This
will require replacing the rods themselves.

Body
----
This is probably where you'll find the greatest variance in Land Crusiers.  Some
trucks are pristine and have been hermetically sealed in their garages all
winter, whereas some have been used to launch boats in the ocean.  The former
will have a body.  The latter won't.

The problem areas for 40 series are: (probable order of occurence)

-along the seam between the sides of the body and the tops of the fenders in
 the rear
-under the back doors
-the "box section" that runs under the door sills
-the lower edges of all doors
-on the fenders around the turn signals
-on the fenders where the support brackets from the frame attach
-along the sill that runs down in front of the doors
-the windshield frame under the rubber gasket
-the lower edge of the hard top and the steel drain sill under the fibreglass

The problem areas for the 60's and 70's are
-the lip around the fender wells
-the lower edges of all the doors
-the rear quarter panels
-under the rubber gasket around the windshield
-under the mud flaps


Drivetrain Swaps
================

Non-Toyota Equipment
--------------------

There is really no limit as to the complexity of swaps you can attempt with a
Land Cruiser.  The most common modifactions are swapping engines and
transmissions.  Let me begin by saying that I am not a big fan of putting
non-Toyota equipment into Land Cruisers.  I only decided to write this section
because I got tired of people asking me about swaps and not being able to
provide any answers.  This section is incomplete and will probably remain that
way for quite some time until fans of the various engines supply me with more
info.  Also, because I do not have first hand experience with anything in this
section, the chances of me makin errors is greater.  If you have a functioning
2F in your truck, I would leave well-enough alone.  The engine is VERY heavy
duty, makes good low-end torque, will never overheat provided your cooling
system is in good shape.  An older F is potentially a better candidate to be
removed and replaced with a more modern setup.  It should be noted that once you
pull the F series motor from your truck, it is no longer a FJ40/55/60.  I prefer
the designation of V8J40.  I will talk about engine swaps retaining a Toyota
transmission, transmission swaps retaining a Toyota engine, swaping in a new
engine and transmission simultaneously, and finally, I'll touch on transfer case
and axle swaps.

Diesel Engine Swaps
-------------------
I'm starting here because to me this is the swap that makes the most sense for a
rock-crawling machine and is probably the least explored.  As you'll figure out
shortly, I'm pretty opinionated on this one and I welcome anyone to dispute my
views.  I believe that diesel engines are superior to gas ones for offroad use
for many reasons.  They tend to make usable torque at much lower engine speed
than gas engines. This means you don't need nearly as low a crawl gear.  They
also feature a much flatter torque curve.  There is no ignition system to fail
because of moisture. They are not as affected by altitude, in fact, turbocharged
diesels are virtually immune to altitude.  In most cases, even though they have
all the advantages of a fuel injected engine, such as the ability to run at
extreme angles, they rely on mechanical injection which is considerably simpler
than electonic injection.  Diesel engines also tend to get much better fuel
economy and greater cruising range than gas engines of similar displacement.

There are two commonly available engines that are suitable for swapping into
Land Cruisers.  The most easily obtained is the GM 6.2l diesel.  It was offered
in Chev/GMC Pickups, Suburbans, and full-size Tahoes.  A conversion kit is
available from Mark's Adapters in Australia to mate a GM diesel to a Land
Cruiser 4 speed manual or automatic transmission.  The GM V8 weighs approximately
the same as the 2F(?)

A rarer engine that I see as being a better match to a Land Cruiser is a Cummins
B3.9 litre turbo diesel.  This engine makes 120hp and xxx ft-lbs of torque.  It
was used in Ford E350 cube vans. Although a conversion kit is not readily
available, I have heard of a local shop performing this conversion.  Further
investigation is definitely warranted.

I think the Cummins B5.9, as used in Dodge Ram is definitely too heavy to put
dinto a 40 series, and is probably too heavy for a 55/60/80 series.

Cummins Engine Specs
--------------------
        DISP                   TORQUE  DRY WT  LENGTH  HEIGHT
MODEL   (CC)  CYL  FUEL  BHP   FT-LB   (LBS)   (IN)    (IN)
4BT3.9  39xx  4    TID   105   260     705     30.1    35.6
4BTA3.9 39xx  4    TIDA  120   302     725     30.1    35.6
6BT5.9  59xx  6    TID   160   400     880     39.6    36.8
6BTA5.9 59xx  6    TIDA  180   451     905     40.7    36.8     

Diesel GM Specs
---------------
           YEARS  DISP             STOCK   TORQUE    COMP    
MODEL      AVAIL  (CC)  CYL  FUEL  HP      FT-LB     RATIO   
5.7L              57xx  V8   ID    .....   ......    ......
6.2L       -94    62xx  V8   ID    150     250@2500  ......
6.5L       94-    65xx  V8   ID    170     290@2000  ......
6.5LT      94-    65xx  V8   TID   190     385@1700  ......

  FUEL
    ID - Indirect Injection Diesel
    DD - Direct Injection Diesel
    T - Turbo
    A - Aftercooled (erroniously called Intercooled by most)

Gas Engine Conversions
----------------------
Ok, you've put up with my compression-ignitionist rantings for a while and have
made it into the section that interests most people.  There are some advantages
to replacing your F series motor with a newer V8.  The V8 weighs 250lb less than
the F, which leads to a big improvement in your power to weight ratio.  Because
the newer motor is a little more effecient, and also because of the weight
savings, you will get improved fuel economy.  The engine that is most commonly
swapped into a Land Cruiser is the venerable Chev 350.  Other conversions, in
approximate decreasing order of quantity are Chev 307, 383, 305, 400, 327, Ford
302/5.0l, Chev 454, Pontiac 455, Chev 4.3l V6.  Swapping a Chev 235 I6 into a
Cruiser is pointless because it is basically identical to an F.  The Chev 292
may be a worthwhile swap for those who want that "authentic straight-six feel"
Unfortunately, this engine is quite fuel hungry like the 2F and parts aren't
nearly as common as for the 350.
 
Even though distributor placement at the front of Ford engines is probably
better than the rear placement of Chev small block distributors, and the Ford
302 weighs 80lb. less than a 350, Chev engines are probably used ten times more
frequently.  The big reason is parts availability.  While ford was wandering
around in Windsor and Cleveland, the 350 changed very little over the years.

For that reason, a plain 350 is probably the easiest choice for an engine conversion.  There are a variety of conversion
kits available and the engine can be found in both carburated and fuel injected
forms.  For those looking for more low-end torque, a 383 is probably the best
choice.  A 383 is a 350 that's been bored .030 over and uses a 400 crank and 350
connecting rods.  A 383 is superior to a 400 because the bore of the 400 is too
large.  There's no space left between the cylinders for water jackets so cooling
is compromised.

There are only a couple of reasons for putting a motor bigger than a 383 or even
building a high horsepower 350.  They are if you intend to drive your truck in
mud or sand, or if you never quite managed to get that adolescent desire to try
to peel your tires off your rims out of your system.

On the other side of the coin, the 4.3l Chev 6 is probably a little too small
for even a 40 series.

Key engine design features to keep in mind are the bore and stroke.  Engines
with a larger bore than stroke (oversquare) are better suited to high-RPM
operation, while engines with a larger stroke than bore are better for lugging
down at low RPMs.  A longer stroke also allows for a lower compression ratio and
lower octane fuel.

Once you have decided which engine you want to use, the next step is to choose
an adapter type.  Depending on the engine you have selected, you can either
use a bellhousing from Advance Adapters, a Ranger torque splitter, or a Mark's
Adapter.

In order to use an Advance Adapter bellhousing, the flywheel from the engine
manufacturer must be used.  In the case of small block engines, the
manufacturer's heavier truck type flywheel is required and is advantageous
because it will allow for smoother operation of the engine at lower revs.  The
advantage of using an Advance Adapter bellhousing is the low cost of the adapter
itself.  This savings leads to higher expenses elsewhere though.  Because the
Advance Adapter bellhousing is approximately the same thickness as the stock
Toyota one, the engine, transmission, and transfercase will have to be shifted
forward to all sufficient firewall clearance.  The movement of the transfercase
will require modified driveshafts.  The use of the Advance Adapter bellhousing
will also require a custom clutch only offered by Advance Adapters.  It's
probably best not to use a clutch that is not univerally available.

The use of a Ranger Torque Splitter provides several advantages.  Foremost, you
get a 27% overdrive for lower revs on the highway.  You can use a stock
Chev/Ford bellhousing and clutch.  The Torque splitter functions as an adapter.
it can be ordered with Chev or Ford bolt and inputshaft patterns on the front
and Toyota input shaft patterns on the back.  Finally, the 7-8" of extra
thickness of the Ranger means that driveshaft modifications are not required.
The Ranger is said to put the fan a little closer to the radiator than ideal
though.

The third option is the Mark's adapter.  Their kit consists of a bellhousing and
flywheel that are 3-1/2" deeper than stock.  The extra depth places the engine
perfectly with no driveshaft modifications.  The extra thick flywheel also
provides extra damping to allow for smoothly lugging down the revs in the rocks.

GM Engine specs
-----------------
           YEARS  DISP             STOCK    TORQUE    COMP    
MODEL      AVAIL  (CC)  CYL  FUEL  HP       FT-LB     RATIO   
231 B      .....  ....  V6   G     .....    ........  .....
252 B      .....  ....  V6   G     .....    ........  .....
235 C      .....  ....  I6   G     120-150  ........  .....
250 CPOB   .....  ....  I6   G     .....    ........  .....
262        75-76  ....  I6   G     110      ........  8.5:1   
265        55-57  ....  V6   G     162-225  ........  8.0:1  
265 C      94-    4343  V6   G     163      ........  .....
265 C(HO)  94-    4343  V6   G     200      ........  .....
267 C      79-81  ....  V6   G     115-125  ........  .....
283 C      57-67  ....  V8   G     135-230  ........  8.5:1-11.0:1
283FI      
292 C      .....  ....  I6   G     .......  ........  .....
302 C      67-69  ....  V8   G     290      ........  11.0:1
305 C      76-94  ....  V8   G     125-230  ........  8.5-9.0
307 C      68-73  ....  V8   G     115-195  240@2000  8.5-9.0
327 C      62-69  ....  V8   G     150-235  ........  8.8-11.3
327FI C           ....  V8   EFI-G 370           
350 C      67-    ....  V8   G     145-300  300@2000  8.5-11.0
350 C      .....  ....  V8   EFI-G .......  ........  .......
383 C      NEVER  ....  V8   G     .......  ........  .......
400 C      70-80  ....  V8   G     150-180  ........  8.5-9.0
454 C      .....  ....  V8   G     .......  ........  .......
455 P      .....  ....  V8   G     .......  ........  .......
500 V      .....  ....  V8   G     .......  ........  .......

MODEL   BORE   STROKE  WEIGHT  LENGTH  HEIGHT 
        (IN)   (IN)    (LBS)   (IN)    (IN)
235 C   3.56   3.96 
262 C   3.671  3.10    ......  ......  ......
265 C   3.730  3.00    550     25      26-1/2
267 C   3.500  3.48    ......  ......  ......
283 C   3.875  3.00    550     25      26-1/2
302 C   4.000  3.00    550     25      26-1/2
305 C   3.736  3.48    ......  ......  ......
307 C   3.875  3.25    550     25      26-1/2
327 C   4.000  3.25    ......  ......  ......
350 C   4.000  3.48    550     25      26-1/2
400 C   4.125  3.75    550     25      26-1/2

B - Buick
C - Chev
O - Oldsmobile
P - Pontiac
V - Cadillac

Ford Engine Specs
-----------------
           YEARS  DISP             STOCK    TORQUE    COMP    
MODEL      AVAIL  (CC)  CYL  FUEL  HP       FT-LB     RATIO   
260                     V8   G     164@4400 258@2200  8.8:1
289        64-          V8   G     200-271  282-312   9.3:1
300               4916  I6   G     -150     .....     .....
302        68-    4948  V8   G     210-235  295-318   8.5:1
302               4948  V8   EFI-G .....    .....     .....
351W       69-    ....  V8   ..... 250-300  355-380   8.6:1
351C              ....  V8   ..... .....    .....     .....
351M              ....  V8   ..... .....    .....     .....
460               ....  V8   EFI-G 250      355..     .....

MODEL   BORE   STROKE  WEIGHT  LENGTH  HEIGHT 
        (IN)   (IN)    (LBS)   (IN)    (IN)
260     3.8    2.87
289     4      2.87
302     4      3.0     425
351W    4      3.5     510
351C                   550
351M                   550
400M                   550
460           

Transmission Swaps
------------------
The three domestic transmissions most commonly swapped into a Land Cruiser are
the SM420 (used in Chev trucks until 1969) SM465 (used in Chev trucks from 1969-
1992) and NV4500 (used in GM and Dodge trucks from 1992-)

MODEL  MAKER  OFFERED IN   DATES  SPD 1ST    2ND    3RD    4TH    5TH    R  
SM420  Muncie GM Trucks    47-67  4   7.05   3.57S  1.70S  1.00S         7.05
SM465  Muncie GM Trucks    68-92? 4   6.54   3.58S  1.70S  1.00S         6.09 
NV4500 New    GM Trucks    92-94  5   6.34S  3.44S  1.71S  1.00S  0.73S  6.34
       Vent-  Dodge Trucks 92-    5   5.61S  3.04S  1.67S  1.00S  0.74S  5.61S  
     ure gear GM Trucks    94-    5   5.61S  3.04S  1.67S  1.00S  0.74S  5.61S

MODEL  LENGTH  BORE
       (IN)    (IN)
SM420  10.5    4.686 
SM465  12.0    5.125
NV4500 12.0

Legend
S following a gear ratio indicated synchronized

The SM420 is probably the most popular transmission swap for a LC because of its
extremely low first gear.  It also has the advantage of being virtually a direct
bolt-up to a three Toyota 3 speed bellhousing.  All that is required is some
minor drilling, a pilot bearing adapter, and a throwout bearing sleave, and an
adapter and spud shaft to go between the transmission and transfer case.  The
biggest disadvantage with the SM420 is parts availability.  Because the
transmission hasn't been made in almost 30 years, many of the parts have been
discontinued.  Adapting the transmission to a truck that formerly had a 4 speed
transmission is also a bit more involved, requiring either an adapter
bellhousing or a modified 3 speed bellhousing to be fitted.

The bolt pattern and bore of the SM465 is different so it will not bolt up to
either the 3 speed or 4 speed bellhousing.  Although it has a higher first gear
ratio, this transmission definitely a better than the swap for those removing a
Toyota 4 speed because the parts will be readily available from your local GM
dealer.  The SM465 is also somewhat beefier than the SM420.

The NV4500 is probably the ultimate domestic transmission.  It has both granny
low and overdrive in a package that is approximately the same length as an
SM420.  It is built to handle high horsepower and torque so the internals are
very strong.  The big drawback for this transmission is that because it is so
new, it is very rare in junkyards.  It is also extremely popular which drives
the price up.  The early GM unit is the hardest to find.  Probably the ultimate
setup is the Early GM/Late GM and Dodge hybrid which gives you the low first gear of the early GM
unit combined with the better third gear ratio and synchronized reverse of the
Late GM/Dodge transmission.

Of course, all the above mentioned transmission swap will require driveshaft
length changes.

If you swap a domestic transmission in along with a domestic engine, matters are
simplified.  You just have to find the domestic bellhousing that will fit your
engine and has the correct bore for your desired transmission.

Transfer Case/Axle Swaps
------------------------

Swapping a non-Land Cruiser transfer case into your truck is a difficult
proposition.  This is due to the fact that all but the very early Land Cruiser
axles have both differentials offset to the passenger's side.  Virtually all
domestic vehicles have the front differential offset to the driver's or
passenger's side while the rear differential is centred.  If you use a domestic
transfer case with Land Cruiser axles, you will wind up with a two-plane
driveshaft angle.  Apparently, the axle housing can be reversed to decrease the
angle, but this is still a very unadvisable setup.

If a domestic transfer case is required, the axles should be replaced as well.
Dana 60s and up are the only axles that are comparable/superior in strength to
the stock Land Cruiser axles.  Reverse-cut Dana 60s have the pinion located
above the centreline of the ring gear and will result in somewhat improved
driveshaft angles in trucks with a great deal of lift.

Maintenance/Modifications
=========================

Aluminum Tubs - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com)
------------------------------------------------
I've got an Aluminum tub on my Cruiser and I love it.  It sure beats having
things fall out the rust holes in the back and getting a spray of water on you
from where the rear wheel wells used to be :)  There are two schools of thought
when it comes to tubs:

Retain the steel sills (my style)
Description/Materials:
   The steel sills around the doors and along the top of the tub were retained 
   (the remainder of the sheet metal is cut away with an air nibbler)  Mine goes
   from the firewall back.  My tub is all 1/8" Aluminum plate with bits of
   6061-T6 1/8" wall structural (round corner) square tubing/channel for body
   mounts and gas tank strap mounts.
Cost:
   Mine cost me CA$2400 (US$1700+/-) but that included a new fuel tank & sender,
   and I also got a "better shape than mine" hard top thrown in for free (a
   one-time lucky break for me)  Keep in mind that my tub was for the body style
   with the gas tank under the floor and required quite a bit of bending on a
   hydraulic brake to make the right shape.
Advantages:
   + Doors and hard top fit properly
   + Slightly more body rigidity
   + Sides are held on with pop rivets + a few tack welds and can be easily
     removed/replaced if damaged
Disadvantages:
   - Steel can continue to rust along the edges until pop rivets securing
     aluminum to steel pull out (requires finding some steel sqaure tubing with
     the same OD as the sill's ID shoving it in and re-riveting--I'm probably
     going to have to do this soon on the driver's side at least)
   - not a "bolt-on" installation - requires a reasonably skilled sheet metal
     worker to cut old steel away nicely
   - not widely available.  Most tubs in this style are home made/made by local
     Cruiser gurus and are therefore harder to find  (Mine was built by a
     Cruiser fanatic that used to make aluminum boats for a living.

All aluminum (style manufactured in Kelowna--Aqualu/Land Cruiser Solutions)
Description/Materials:
   One note:  The tubs I'm talking about is made by a Kelowna, B.C. company
   called Aqualu Industries.  These are sold east of the Mississippi by
   Land Cruisr Solutions.  Anyways, on with the description:

   The entire tub behind the "drip rail" that runs down in front of the door
   hinges is hacked away.  The sills are replaced with 6061-T6 1/8"
   round-edge... which leads to the door/hard top fit problems described by Gary
   Bjork.  Here's a quickie ascii illustration of the cross-section of the lower 
   part of the door and sill to show you:

          Stock doors/sills          Kelowna style body
             |    |                     |    |
             |Door|                     |    |        
             |  __/                     |  __/
             | |O  ||                   | |O  +------+        Legend
             |_|O / |__                 |_|O  |      |        O = Rubber Seal
                 /     |                      |      |        
                / Sill |                      |      |
                |______|                      |______| 
                |                             |  
                |                             |

   As you can (hopefully) see, the stock doors fit flush into the body whereas
   the "Kelowna Style" stick out by an amount equivalent to the width of the 
   bottom edge of the door (about 1/2"?)  The hard top also sticks out by this
   by the width of the bottom edge.  The tub is made from material thinner than
   1/8" (3/32", I think) and is available with both checker and smooth sides.
   If you only run a soft top and soft doors, the fit problems I described above
   will not really be noticable.

   There is now a version of the tub available with "factory-style" sills.  It
   costs extra though.
   
Cost:

               NO SILLS             SILLS
   EARLY-78    CA$1955 (~US$1396)   CA$2475 (~US$1768)
   79-84       CA$2346 (~US$1675)   CA$2865 (~US$2046)
   
Advantages:
   + minimal cutting - true bolt-on installation
   + don't have to worry about sills rotting away
   + if your're truck has been rolled/crashed you instantly get a straight tub!
   + much easier to move to a newer/better Cruiser if you buy one at a later date
Disadvantages:
   - door/top fit problems outlined earlier (if you cheap out and don't get
   sills)
   - completely welded together - if you tweak it, you have to live with it
   
So there you have it, everything you ever wanted to know about aluminum tubs
(but were afraid to ask) ALMOST.  Here's a few details that apply to both styles:

Aluminum is MUCH more difficult to paint than steel.  A good finish would
probably require going to a high-end paint shop (Your local "Oh-Oh, better get a
new paint job" place probably couldn't handle it)

Aluminum tubs can't really be fixed if they're severly kinked/dented (or at
least not as well as a conventional steel sheet metal body.  I talked to my
insurance agent about mine and she thought that replacing my tub in the event of
an accident would be covered under the same heading as aluminum pick-up
canopies.

Aqualu makes aluminum front fenders, but they were kind of ugly IMHO.  Because
they could only roll and not stamp the fenders, they couldn't duplicate the
compound curves at the front of the fender and just left off the last little
curve on the front of the fender. They sold for something like CA$395 a pair

Finally, for those of you that don't like aluminum, I have seen a replacement
tub made out of 3/16" STEEL!  I suspect it would have made the truck into a
complete slug, however resistance to small arms fire would be a huge advantage
to anyone living in LA/Washington/Detroit :)

Breather Relocation - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com)
------------------------------------------------------
NOTE:  It's been a while since I've done this and may have forgotten
something, also, this is the last article I typed in for v1.0 so I'm pretty
fried.  If I say something that seems wrong, it probably is.  Anyone who
tries these directions, drop me a line and let me know if I missed anything.

Depending on what year and model of Cruiser you own, you may have the pop
valve axle breathers mounted directly to the axle housing.  If you truck ever
sees any water off-road (or good flooding on road) this set-up is inadequate.
The check valves always become clogged. This either allows water to stream
into your axle housing, or worse, does not allowing your axle to breathe which
results in blown seals which THEN let water in.  For water over bumper height,
even Toyota's breather hoses that reach up to the frame height aren't enough.

Fortunately, replacing your breathers is both simple and cheap.  First you
must remove the check valves.  Before doing this, ensure the area around the
breather is free of mud/grime--you don't want to have any grit falling into
the breather hole and wearing your ring and pinion.  Once the valves are out,
check the threads to determine if they're fine or coarse (all breathers after
1971 are fine thread.  Some rear breathers from prior to 71 are coarse.  I am
not sure if this procedure would work with coarse threads so attempt it at
your own risk.  Temporarily pop the valves back in and go to your hardware
store.

You will need 2 1/4" brass right angle NPT to compression fittings, 2 plastic
ferrules and hose inserts, 15' of 1/4"OD nylon hose (poly will do in a pinch, a T
junction with compression fittings on all sides, a whole whack of small
*zip-ties, a 10mm tapping die (same thread as your breathers), some 3/8"
washers, 2 M10x1.25 nuts, 3" of 1/4"ID rubber hose (like fuel line), 2 1/4" hose
clamps, cutting fluid (oil will do in a pinch), Blue Loctite 242, and
(recommended but not required) 15' of corregated wire loom covering that will
fit over the pipe.  If your axles are the style where the rear breather comes
up through the brake line T, you will also need a 1-1/2" length of 3/8" brass
pipe (often available as a pre-threaded length) and a fitting for joining the
pipe to the right angle fitting.

The following procedure applies to situations where the brass pipe and coupler
are not required.

1. Re-cut the NPT threads on the angle fittings with a 10mmx1.25 die.  If you
   don't have a die handle, you can always use a wrench, but this increases
   your chances of cross-threading.  Don't forget 1 turn forwards, 1/2 turn
   back, and use lots of cutting fluid.  You may have a couple of threads that
   are messed up because of interference between the metric and NPT threads,
   but it should still be strong enough.
2. Coat the threads on the fitting with Blue Loctite
3. Thread a M10x1.25 nut onto the right angle fitting.
4. Thread the right angle fitting into the axle until it won't go any farther
   (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN -- the brass is nowhere near as strong as steel)
5. Back the fitting off until it's pointing in the direction you want.
6. Tighten the bolt.

The following procedure applies to those who bought the brass pipe and coupler

1. Coat the coupler's threads with Blue Loctite.  Thread the pipe into one end and
   the right angle fitting into the other.
2. Re-cut the threads on the pipe as per #1 above.  Cut approximately 5/16" of
   threads.
3. Coat the pipe's threads with Loctite
4. Thread the assembly into the axle.  (If tightens pointing in the wrong
   direction, remove it and try shimming it with a washer so it points in the
   right direction)

Once the angles are in place, you can put on the hose.

1. Remove the compression nut and brass ferrule from the right angle fitting.
2. Plan out the routing of your hose.  It is best to have it travel up along
   the brake lines, that way there is less of a chance of the hose being
   damaged by branches etc under the truck.  A good location for the T is
   right against the brake line L that is mounted on the frame below the
   master cylinder.  True hard-core types who don't mind the smell of gear
   oil can route the line that comes off the T through the firewall into the
   passenger compartment for maximum fording ablility.  Otherwise if you're
   not equipped with a snorkle, plan to send the line up along the fire wall
   to hood height.  Those lucky enough to have snorkels should route the line
   up the back side of the snorkle.
3. Once you've planned the route, cut the plastic tubing and loom cover to the
   required lengths.
4. Slide the compression nut and a plastic ferrule onto each end of the hose.
5. Place the hose inserts inside each end of the hose to prevent it from being
   crushed when you tighten the compression nuts.
6. Slide the hose into the angle fitting, and tighten the compression nut.
7. Route the hose along the frame of the truck and attach the other end to the
   T.
8. Snap the loom cover over the hose and zip tie it securely to the frame or a
   brake line along its whole length.
9. Place the compression nut ferrule and hose insert onto one end of the hose
   that is to be routed up along the firewall/into the passenger
   compartment/up the snorkle and tighten it down.
10. Thead/stuff the one of the old breather pop valves into the rubber hose
    and clamp it securely with a hose clamp.
11. Fit the other end of the rubber hose over the top of the plastic tubing
    and clamp it with the second hose clamp.

Now your axles are waterproof (if the seals are good :)  Unfortunately, there
are still two breathers you must worry about for SERIOUS fording.  They are on
the transfer case and steering box.  Unfortunately, I haven't gotten around to
relocating these yet.  All that will be required when I do this is splicing
two more T's into the plastic tubing.  The steering box should require a
procedure identical to the one outlined here, but I think the transfer case
may have a different sized breather plug and require something more creative.

Glow Plugs - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com)
---------------------------------------------
It is considerably cheaper to buy your glow plugs from somebody other than
Toyota.  NGK makes 2 models that fit B's, 3B's, and 2H's.  The part number for
the 24V version is Y197R.  The 12V version is not available in North America.

In the event that your glow plugs fail far from civilizaton, it is still
possible to start your truck (as long as it is not too cold outside)  Simply
heat a largish pot of water until it is about to come to a rolling boil.  Then
pour the hot water over the intake manifold and injection nozzles of the truck.
The truck should start as if you'd actually used the glow plugs.  If the truck
still won't start, try several more pots of water to heat the manifold further.

Ride Harshness - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com)
-------------------------------------------------
Short wheel base trucks ride rough and there is not a whole lot that can be
done about it.  There are a few options to soften the ride though.  In order
of "Bang-For-The-Buck" they are:

1.  AVOID ADD-A-LEAFS!
    These will make your Cruiser ride like the axles are bolted directly to
    the frame.

2.  Keep lifts as small as possible.  
    The higher up you are, the more pitching motions of the truck are 
    amplified.

3.  Use the right shocks.
    In BC, the preferred shock set up for FJ40's is 70/30 Gas charged shocks 
    (like KYB Gas-A-Just) up front and 50/50 Oil shocks in the rear (Like 
    Rancho RS5000) The B series engines are lighter than the F's so 70/30 
    shocks in the front give a _VERY_ harsh ride.  The preferred set-up for
    BJ-40's is 50/50 oil shocks at all four corners.  This may also be the 
    best set-up for V8 Owners

4.  If you have the Rancho 2.5" 7 leaf Lift, you can improve the ride quality
    by modifying the spring wrappers.  Rancho makes the wrappers too tight
    for proper spring movement.  If you pry open the outermost sets of
    wrappers, the ride will become softer and your articulation will increase
    by several inches.  The remaining three wrappers are sufficient to prevent
    spring pack shifting.

5.  If your truck is lifted, you can soften the ride by removing one of the
    short leaves.  Unfortunately, removing a leaf will also decrease ride
    height and load capacity.

6.  Front shackle reversal
    Reversing the front shackles allows the axle to pivot up and backwards 
    (away) from obstacles instead of forwards into them.  Shackle reversal
    will also decrease bump steer by keeping the steering linkage geometry
    constant over obstacles.  Reversals that recess the shackle mount into the
    frame are superior because they do not increase lift, and the fixed front
    mounts are not as likely to become "boulder finders"  However, they may
    also create shackle movement problems.

7.  Polyurethane Bushings/Greasable Shackles
    Adding polyurethane bushings will not soften the ride but will improve
    handling by preventing the springs from twisting relative to the mounts.  
    Polyurethane is also required for greasable shackles because dino-based
    grease will break down rubber bushings quickly.  Using after-market 
    shackles will further improve handling by resisting shackle twisting,
    while greasable pins allow the springs to move more freely to absorb
    bumps.

Steering Wandering-Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com)
---------------------------------------------------
There are four basic components in the 40 series steering system that can wear
out/go out of adjustment and cause steering slop/wandering.  They are the tie
rod ends, drag link end, centre arm, and steering box.

A small amount of play in each of the tie rod edns can add up to a huge amount
of steering slop.  The only way tie rods should be able to be moved by hand is
to rotate slightly on an axis that runs through the ball joints at each end of
the rod.  Even this motion should feel "snug."  If the tie rod can be moved in
any other direction the ball joints are probably worn and should be replaced.

The drag link connects to the pitman arm that comes off the steering box.  If
the link can be moved in a fore-aft motion without the pitman arm moving, the
end is out of adjustment.  The adjustment procedure is fairly simple.  Remove
the cotter pin, and with a very large slot screwdriver tighten the end plug as
far as you can, then back it out 1/2 turn.  Finally, put in a new cotter pin.

The centre arm probably accounts for most 40 series steering problems.  It is
located on the drivers side in front of the front frame crossmember.  To test
if your centre arm is worn or needs adjustment, have someone turn the
steering wheel back and forth while you stand in front of your truck.  The
centre arm shaft should only rotate about a vertical axis and not twist
side-side.  If the shaft twists, it may only be out of adjustment.  To adjust
it, loosen the lock bolt on top of the centre arm.  Next remove the top cap.
Check inside the arm for grease.  If there is none, chances are you centre arm
is scrap, but it's worth packing it and re-testing it anyways before you blow
$100 on a re-build kit.  Once you've filled the housing with grease, replace
the top cap.  Tighten it down as far as you can then back it of 1/4 turn.
Then tighten the locking bolt.  Finally, repeat the steering wheel turn test.
If the shaft still twists, you need a re-build.

The 40 series manual steering box will only fail to outlive you if one of two
things happen:  it's run without oil, or its not adjusted periodically.  The
only way for the oil to get out is if the sector shaft seal fails.  Should
this happen, you can get by by packing the housing with grease until you have
time to replace the seal.  Adjustment of the steering box should only be
attempted after reading the Toyota Steering or Body/Chassis manual.

If you are running larger than stock tires, you will need a larger than stock
steering dampener to stop wandering.  IMHO, the Old Man Emu stabilizer is the
way to go.  It is a VERY sturdy bolt-in replacement for the stock stabilizer.
The other alternative is to get something like the Rancho kit or Heckthorn
"Big Yellow" which require adding brackets to the axle and tie rod.  I believe
the OME unit is superior because it puts the stabilizer higher up where it is
less likely to be smacked by rocks or submerged in water, it doesn't introduce
any strange off-axis forces in the tie rods and it doesn't require the cheezy
clamp-on brackets.

Steering can also be improved by using polyurethane bushings/aftermarket
shackles as detailed in the section on Ride Harshness.

Transmission and Transfer Removal Tips-Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
The transmission and transfer case should be removed as a unit, even if you 
only need to remove the transfer case.  The transmission will separate easily 
from the bellhousing whereas separating the transfer case from the
transmission usually requires a puller.  Removing the transmission also allows
you to inspect the clutch and pilot bearing.

Save your old large-eye rubber spring bushings.  They are great for removing 
the shifter from your manual transmission.  Instead of using two screwdrivers 
to push and twist (and scratch) the shift lever cap, use the bushing.  First,
remove the ball at the end of the shifter.  Slide the bushing (narrow end 
down) to the base of the shifter.  Then slide a 19mm or larger box end wrench
(or the end of a large crescent wrench) down the shifter.  Clamp a set of 
Vise-Grips on to the bushing tight enough to twist it, but not so tight as to 
clamp it to the shifter.  Then while pushing down HARD on the box-end wrench,
twist the Vise-Grips clockwise.  The shift lever cap should pop right off.

The pilot bearing should be replaced every time you remove the transmission as 
it is an inexpensive part that can cause major headaches if it fails.  The 
easiest way to remove the pilot bearing is with the Toyota puller (SST# 
09303-55010 F&HJ, SST# 09303-35010 BJ)  Sometimes the bearing is so tightly 
wedged into the crankshaft that more drastic measures are required.  If the 
bearing cannot be budged with the puller, the next easiest method is to cut it
out.  To prepare for this, you must first remove the inner race and ball
bearings.  To remove the inner race, knock out the black ball bearing cover
with a screw driver.  Next, poke out the bearing cage.  Removal of the cage
will allow you to move all the ball bearings to one side of the race.  The
inner race should then pop out easily.  After you fish out all the ball
bearings, you are ready to begin cutting the outer race.  For this, you will
need a Dremel tool and some cut-off disks.  The 1-1/4" discs are too large and
will need to be worn down to 1" or smaller for this to work.  To wear the disk
down, find a piece of scrap steel and cut it.  Pressing too hard will quickly
wear the disk down.  Once the disk is small enough, you can begin to cut the
race,  You will need to make two cuts, 90 degrees to each other.  If the disk
is 1" in diamater, you will be able to make two cuts 180 degrees to each other
at the same time.  Keep a close eye on your cutting to ensure you do not cut
cut the crank shaft.  Don't worry abou making a small nick or two in the race
seat.

It will not cause serious problems.  Once you have made 2 (or 4) cuts in the
outer race, pry it out with a screw driver.  You should place something to pry
against on the flywheel in the recessed area that does not contact the clutch
(Don't scratch the face that contacts the clutch!) A piece of steel similar to
a pre-'81 shackle works well for this.  If you're blessed with a newer
Cruiser, a piece of 1/2"x3"x1" steel channel (fig A) (or something similar)
will also do.
      __________
     /___3_____/|
  1/2| |      | |
     |/       |/ <--- 1"
         fig A

Be sure to wear eye protection as the race will only give a little warning
(some visible twisting) before flying out.

Putting the tranny back in is a tiresome process.  An engine hoist is
essential if you want to preserve your sanity.  Jacking the tranny/transfer
assmebly from below is virtually impossible.  You should buy 3 M12x60x1.25 or so
bolts to help you allign the transmission.  Manouver the tranny into position so
that the input shaft is through the throw-out bearing and at least one of the
tranny-bellhousing holes is alligned (the lower passenger side one is a good
place to start)  Thread one of the longer M12 bolts through the tranny and into
the bellhousing (be sure there's alot of thread going into the bellhousing so it
won't tear out if it has to take some of the tranny's weight.  Next, rotate the
tranny about the bolt until another hole is alligned.  Pop in another of your
M12 bolts in.  You may have to level the tranny a little before you can get the
last bolt in.  (Put it on the passenger's side--it's easier to remove)  You
should then be able to walk the tranny along the bolts until its right up snug
with the bellhousing.  It may take a little push to close the final 1/4" gap.
If there is resistance before this point, chances are the tranny's input shaft
is not going through the pilot bearing properly.  BE CAREFUL.  If you crush the
pilot bearing, you'll have to repeat the whole removal/installation process!
Once the tranny is in position, put one of the stock length bolts into the
driver's side top hole.  Finally, remove the allignment bolts one by one and
install the stock bolts.


V8J40 Cooling Tips -  Fred Welland (fwelland@prcrs.prc.com)
-----------------------------------------------------------
CONTRIBUTORS     ENGINE     FAN            RAD           USUAL TEMP
Fred Welland     350 (400)  7 BLADE AIRCO  2F            190-230
Karl Klashinsky  350        Electric       5/6 CORE      200-210
Mike Bennett     350                       5-CORE X-FLO  200-210
Mike Sousa       350        7 BLADE CADDY  4-CORE        185-200

TEMPERATURE RANGES
The ideal maximum temperature for a SB Chevy in a Land Cruiser is 200 degrees
Fahrenheit.  The maximum allowable is probably in the 230-240 range.

FAN TYPES
Flex fans are generally regarded as the poorest type for extreme cooling.
Clutch fans are the next worst
Electrical fans are the next.  They have two advantages: the ablility to be
manually shut off during water crossings to prevent splashing, and greater fuel
economy.  However, a single electrical fan does not move enough air--a dual fan
push-pull arrangement may be better though.
It is generally agreed that some type of fixed pitch fan with many deep blades
is the best.  It will move the greatest amount of air, however, it will provide
your truck with DC-3 on takeoff roll sound-effects and will function as an
excellent screw in water crossings.  Some sources of thes monster props are air
conditioning suppliers and Cadillacs.

WATER PUMPS & HOSES
A high flow water pump can be good for as much as a 10 degree temperature drop.

For extreme temperature duty, molded hoses tend to be more rupture-resistant
than flexible ones.

TEMPERATURE SENDER PLACEMENT
In most cases, the sender is located on the side of the block between cylinders 1 and 2.  

LOWERING STOCK RADIATOR
Piece of cake.  I hoped I could just slide the radiator down in the u-shaped 
channel and drill some new holes.  Nope, I couldn't get the radiator down 
enough: you might be able to.  If not, take out the radiator and u-shaped 
mount.  The radiator mounts to the u-shaped mount and the u-shaped mount sits 
on two brackets extending back from the front crossmember.  Figure out where 
you want the radiator to sit (fore and aft) and then cut off enough of the 
existing brackets so the radiator and mount will move straight down.  Figure 
out how low you want the radiator to sit and then weld two pieces of angle 
iron to the ends of the brackets to make a new lower shelf for the u-shaped 
mount to sit on.  
     
old mount:  |__________             new mount: |______
            |__________|                       |______|
            |                                  |      |___
     
When I got my radiator low enough, the corner of my u-shaped mount wanted to 
occupy the same space as my steering column shaft.  I chopped a section out of 
the u-shaped mount for clearance around the steering shaft and just reinforced 
the inside of the mount with another small piece of steel.  Looks funny, but 
it works.   Bend, cut, weld, or something so you can reattach the side braces 
and your down the road!

FAN SHROUDS
Some claim that a fan shoud makes all the differnce in the world, however some
there are also those that say installing a shroud had no effect.

OIL COOLERS
Adding an oil cooler should make a difference in your engine temperature because
theoretically you now have two paths for heat to leave the engine.  Adding an
oil cooler has the advantage of increasing your oil capacity (although it will
cost you more for an oil change) 

COOLANT ADDITIVES
> Water Wetter is available from any Super Shops. It's $6.95/bottle. If they
> don't have it in stock they will order it for you.

Water Wetter is made by Redline.  You can order it directly from them at
1-800-624-7958 if you can't find it locally.  However, it may be subject
to a minimum order.  It works.

Land Cruiser Clubs
==================

North America
-------------
Toyota Land Cruiser Association (TLCA)
PO Box 607
Placerville, CA 95667-0607
Kara Patston (Membership): KPatston@aol.com
Gary Bjork (Toyota Trails Editor):  TLCAEditor@aol.com
Membership Services:1(800)397-3260 24hr voice/fax

Chapters:
This information (esp. Contacts and Phone #'s) may change fairly regularly,
contact TLCA for more info.

Basin & Range Cruisers
1639 East 4500 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84124
Contact: Jack Christensen
(801)277-6629

Beach'N'Toys
405 S Rose St.
Escondido, CA 92027
Contact: Brad Phillips
(619)747-1822

Capital Land Cruiser Club
45655C Woodland Rd.
Sterling, VA 20166
Contact: James Asti
(703)404-8115

Cascade Cruisers
10045 S. Marquam Circle
Molalla, OR 97038
Contact: Peter Poling
(503)642-9164

Coastal Cruisers
2360 Douglas Road
Burnaby, B.C.
Canada
V5C 5B2
Contact: Dave Romaniuk
(604)299-5600
E-contact: Rob Mullen
RAMullen@wimsey.com

Gold Coast Cruisers
761 Coronado Pl.
Oxnard, CA 93030
Contact: Lary Moczulski
(805)984-3309

Georgia Cruisers
PO Box 467691
Atlanta, GA 31146
Contact: Steve Clevenger
(404)446-9115

High-N-Dry Four Wheelers
9432 E. Ave. T-10
Littlerock, CA 93543
Contact: Mike Greear
(805)944-3881

Keystone Cruisers, TLCA of PA
1063 E. Caracas
Hershey, PA 17033
Contact: Ken Johannsen
KJohannsen@aol.com

Massachusetts Coastal Transit Authority
3 Federal St.
Newburyport, MA 01950
Contact: Tedd Brown
(508)465-6021

Mid-Ohio Land Cruisers
1791 E. Orange Rd.
Lewis Center, OH 43035
Contact: Bill Scott
(614)548-6214

Mountain Transit Authority
PO Box 54024
San Jose, CA 95154
Contact: Bill Youngman
(408)629-0949
billfj4045@aol.com

Nor-Cal Marauders
13880 Noble Way
Red Bluff, CA 96080
Contact: Jim Bosman
(916)527-4129

Rising Sun 4 Wheel Drive Club of Colorado
4125 S. Lisbon Way
Aurora, CO 80013
Contact: Chris Hatfield
(303)680-1292
Toy4x4s@aol.com

Southeast Land Cruiser Association
208 Reidhurst Ave.
Nashville, TN 37203
Contact: Rainey Kirk
(615)320-0129

Southern Nevada Land Cruisers
PO Box 28004
Las Vegas, NV 89126
Contact: David Hawkins
(702)452-8471

So. Cal. TLCA
PO Box 1291
Sunset Beach, CA 90742
Contact: Ed Bailey
(714)841-9944

Totally Landcruisers of New Jersey
PO Box 114
Eatontown, NJ 07724
Contact: Al Kaplan
(908)458-3413

TLCA Los Angeles County
1849 Lucretia Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Contact: Bill Ferguson
(213)250-4179

TLCA Ventura County (founding chapter)
PO Box 367
Ventura, CA 93002
Contact: Michelle Bolton
(805)647-5263

Toyotally Awesome Cruisers of Auburn
PO Box 5482
Auburn, CA 95604
Contact: Marty Patton
(916)268-9312
E-Contact: Jeff Hassi
JHassi@aol.com

Toys 4 Fun
PO Box 4086
Fresno, CA 93744
Contact: Chuck Parks
(209)432-9468

Toys on the Rocks
PO Box 546
Placerville, CA 95667
Contact: Jerry Schroeder
(916)642-0303

Virginia Land Cruiser Association
205 Bayview Dr.
Yorktown, VA 23692
Contact: Bill Baxter
(804)877-9136

Washington Timber Toys
PO Box 2963
Woodinville, WA 98072-2963
Contact: Gordon Quehrn
(206)483-3531

Windy City Land Cruisers
4741 Montgomery Ave.
Downers Grove, IL 60515
Contact: Jim Today
(708)968-7820

Australia
---------
Toyota Landcruiser Club of Australia (Victoria) Inc.
PO Box 363
Hawthorn, Vic 3122

Toyota Landcruiser Club of Australia (SA) Inc.
PO Box 55
Oaklands Park, SA 5046

Toyota LandCruiser Club of Queensland Inc.
PO Box 309
Wooloongabba, Qld 4102

Toyota Landcruiser Club of Vic, Geelong Branch
PO Box 515
Geelong, Vic 3220

Toyota LandCruiser Club (NSW)
PO Box 2
Bankstown, NSW 2200

Netherlands
-----------
Toyota Landcruiser Club The Netherlands
c/o Jos Coppes
Albionstraat 12
5809 AD  Leunen
the Netherlands
phone: 0478-512935 (day)
and: 0478-583290 (evenings)


Parts Suppliers
===============
Legend
N       New Parts
U       Used Parts
C       Catalog Available
S       Service or Custom Work
V       Complete Vehicles
*       Specialty Products 

North America
-------------
Advance Adapters, Inc.
N,C                                     Engine/Transmission/TC Adapters
PO Box 247
Paso Robles, CA 93447
(805)238-7000   FAX (805)238-4201

Advanced Four Wheel Drive Systems
S
1102 South 200 West
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
(801)521-2334  FAX (801)521-2335

All American Enterprises 4x4
4830 N. Hwy 97
Klamath Falls, OR 97601
(541)882-5313

Aqualu Industries
3251-A Sexsmith Road
Kelowna, BC Canada
(604) 765-6714  FAX (604)765-6704

ARB-U.S.A.*                              
                                        Air Lockers, ARB bumpers,
1425 Elliott Ave. W                     Old Man Emu Springs, Shackles
Seattle, WA 98119                       
(206)284-5906  FAX (206)284-6171
arbusa@halcyon.com

Brown's Toyota City                     
N                                       New parts at wholesale
7167 Ritchie Hwy.
Glen Burnie, MD 21061
1-800-848-4451

BTB Products
N,U,M,S                                 Adv. Adapters, PS Conv, Compressors
825 Civic Center Dr. #8                 Springs, Disc Conv, Cages, Tire Racks
Santa Clara, CA 95050
(408)984-5444  FAX (408)984-0155
btbprod@btbprod.com
http://www.btbprod.com/Home.html


Clifford Performance
N,C                                     6-1 Headers, camshafts, EFI kits
2330 Pomona-Rincon Rd.
Corona, CA 91720
(714)734-3310 (714)734-3405

Colorado Toyota Specialists
26366 Sutton Rd.
Conifer, CO 80433
(303)838-4772

Con-Ferr
N,C                                     Bumpers, Skid Plates, Shackles, Diff 
123 South Front St., Dept. FW0495       Skids, Roof Racks, Storage Boxes
Burbank, CA 91502-1983
(213)849-1800, (818)848-2025,2330,6993
FAX(818)848-1011

"Cool Cruisers" of Texas
V,N                                     Sells Restored Land Cruisers, Body
101 - 5101 Grisham Drive                Panels, Bolt-on Air Conditioning
Rowlett (Dallas Suburb), TX 75243       **NO CATALOGS OR OTHER PARTS 
(214)707-8993  FAX (214)303-0619        AVAILABLE**
http://www.netsmith.com/cool/

Cruiser Parts
2852 NW Highland Ave.
Grants Pass, OR 97526
(503)476-2361

Downey Off-Road Manufacturing
N,C,M                                   Tanks, Bumpers, Cams, Adapters, 
10001 S. Pioneer Blvd.                  Clutches, Dietributors, Tops, Diffs
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670               
(213)949-9494  FAX (213)949-5718

FabTech Manufacturing & Off Road, Inc.   
N,U,S,C                                 14ga Steel Tubs, Fenders, PS
#9 - 150 Campion Rd.                    Conversions, Restored LC's,
Kelowna, B.C.                           Shackle Reversal
Canada V1V 1L9
(604)765-0019 FAX (604)765-1419 

Front Range Cruisers
N,U                                     Buy/Sell/Trade
2406 North Logan Ave.
Colorado Springs, CO. 80907
(719)633-8178 FAX (719)475-7609

Hadley Industries
U,V,N,S,D
4785 Pratt
Metamora, MI 48455
(810)797-4120

Interior Auto Wrecking                   
U, V                                    Used FJ/BJ/HJ Parts
3101 45th Ave.                           
Vernon, B.C.                             
Canada V1T 3N7                           
(604)545-2104  FAX (604)542-3335

James Toyota
172 Route 202
Flemington, NJ 08822
(908)788-5700  FAX (908)788-7887

Jim's Fuel Injection Service
N                                       Diesel injector service,
112-1083 East Kent Ave.                 Diesel fuel pump parts
Vancouver, B.C.                         Bolt on turbo kits
V5X 4V?
(604)324-1715

K & L Engineering*
6355 Smith Ave.
Mira Loma, CA 91725
(714)735-4182

Land Cruiser Advanced Handling           
N,S                                     Suspension Correction (Shackle
1029 S.E.24th                           Reversal), Springs, Spring Over
Albany, OR 97321                        Conversion
(503)926-8122

Land Cruiser Recycling
N,U,V
PO Box 11727
Blacksburg, VA 24060-1727
(703)961-2053

Land Cruiser Solutions                   
                                        Al Tubs, Grilles, Tailgates, Fenders, 
3 Federal Street                        Running Boards
Newburyport, MA 01950,
(508) 462-5656

Land Cruisers Unlimited
U,N,S                                   Steel 1/2 Doors, Tail Lights, Tire
E. 7555 Ohio Match Road                 Carriers, FR/RR Discs, Bumpers
Rathdrun, ID 83858
(208)687-2607

Laughing Horse Design
12205 Lockey Lane Ste 12
Auburn, CA 95602
(916)888-8200

Lou Fusz Toyota
N,C                                     New Toyota Parts, Accessories, &
10725 Mancheser St.                     Performance Parts
St Louis, MO, 63122
1-800-325-9581(CA/US) (314)-966-5404
FUSZTOYOTA@aol.com

Malotte Manufacturing Co., Inc.
N,C                                    Fibreglass tubs, tops, fenders
PO Box 305
Lincoln, CA 95648
(916)645-8111


Man-A-Fre
N,U,M,C                                 6-1 Headers, Carbs, Toyota Parts,
5076 Chesebro Rd.                       Rebuilt Parts, Lights, Springs, 
Agoura, CA 91301                        Shocks, LSD's, Old Man Emu, ARB, 
(818)991-6689  FAX (818)991-7105        Con-Ferr Advance Adapters
sysmgr@man-a-fre.com
http://www.man-a-fre.com/

Mark's Off Road Enterprises
N,U,D,S,M
437 N. Moss Street
Burbank, CA 90501
(818)953-9230  FAX (818)953-7225

Marlins Auto & Truck Repair
S                                       Marlin Crawlers?
1543-B N. Maple
Fresno, CA 93703
(209)252-1584

Nairobi Outfitters                      Extreme duty grillguards/winchmounts
PO Box 1211                             Expedition quality vehicle 
Goleta, Ca 93117                        modifications/fabrication, tech support
(805)682-7933

National Spring
N                                       Custom springs/lift kits
Dept. OR
1402 N. Magnolia Ave.
El Cajon, CA 92020
(619)441-1901

Northwest Off-Road Specialties           
N,C,F                                   80 Series Accessories ONLY
1999 Iowa St.                            
Bellingham, WA 98226                     
(206)676-1200  FAX (206) 676-5401

Olympic Off Road
N,U,S,V,D
3735 S Pine Suite E
Tacoma, WA 98409
(206)473-5797

Ozone Off-Road, Inc.
N,U,S,C,V                               Performance items, fibreglass bodies,
86 Freeman's Bridge Rd.                 V8 conv., suspension, frame mounted
Glenville, NY 12302                     roll bars/cages
(518)346-8849

PowerTrax/Lock Right*
245 Fischer Ave. B-4
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(800)562-5377  FAX (714)545-5425

Ramsey Winch Co.*
                                        Winches?! :)
PO Box 581510
Tulsa, OK 74158
(918)438-2760  FAX (918)438-6688

Renegade Fabrication                    Service or Custom Work, Specialty
18447 N. 33rd Avenue                    Products
Phoenix, AZ, U.S.A. 85023-1050
(602) 938-3185 

R&M Specialty Products*                  
                                        Onboard hot-water showers
PO Box 1683
Windsor, CA 95492                        
(707)838-3869

Rocky Mountain Offroad Specialties
365 Bonny Street, Suite A
Grand Junction, CO, U.S.A. 81503
(800) 524-6005 

Specter Off-Road, Inc.
N,U,M,C                                 New/Used Toyota USA/NON USA Parts
21600 Nordhoff St.                      3-2-1 Headers, Conn-Ferr
Chatsworth, CA 91311
(818)882-1238  FAX (818)882-7144
http://www.sor.com/

Stevens Creek Toyota, Inc.               
N,S,V                                    
4425 Stevens Creek Blvd.                 
Santa Clara, CA 95050-7395               
(408)984-1234  FAX (408)246-8028

TLC Mechanix                            Owner: Adrian McGlaughlin
N,U,S,V                                 Power steering, disc brakes,
122 S. Lillie Lane                      V8 conversions, suspensions, custom                     
Fayetteville, AR 72701                  fabrication.
501-582-4TLC (4852)

TLC Offroad
N,U,S                                   New/Used Parts, ARB/OME, 24V bulbs,
2360 Douglas Rd.                        Nippondenso glow plugs
Burnaby, BC
Canada
V5C 5B2
(604)299-5600
RAMullen@wimsey.com

Toyotas "R" Us
U,S
7730 CR 150
Salida, CO 81201
(719)539-7733

Truck Sales Co. Off-Road Center
N,U,M,S,V                                
2211 Dickerson Road
Nashville, TN 37207
(615)262-5850

Toyota Racing Development (TRD)
18240 South Western Avenue
Gardena, California 90248
(310)532-1232
                           
Warden's Auto Repair
N,U,S,V                                 SM420-3 SPD TC adapter kits
640 Main St.                            Bullet Proof CNC Milled Transfer
Placerville, CA 95667                   Cases
(916)622-9242  FAX(909) 338-6709

W.E. For Wheel
N,U
PO Box 601
Crestline, CA 92325
(909)338-5120  FAX (989)338-6709

Australia
---------
Don Kyatt 4WD Parts & Accessories
N,S                                     Direct importer of spare parts,
172 Roden St.                           ARB Stockists
West Melbourne
Vic 3003
(03)329-8200

177 Chesterville Rd.
Moorabbin,
Vic 3189
(03)555-0455

108 Regency Rd.
Ferryden Park
SA 5010
(08)243-1966

Lean & Bennett                          New Toyota parts
307 Main St
Lithgow NSW 2790
063-522211  FAX 063-523009
toyota@sydney.dialix.oz.au

Leo's Cruisers                          Early FJ40's and FJ55's, fibreglass body
2 Panamuna Ave                          panels
Taylors Lakes
Victoria Australia, 3038.
613 93902670  CELL 613 15 329433

Mark's Adapters
22 Sinclair Road
Dandenong, Victoria Australia, 3175
(03) 9793 3388 (03) 9706 8148
marks4wd@ozemail.com.au
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~marks4wd/

2 comments:

  1. Hi there, I read your blogs on a regular basis. Your humoristic style is witty, keep it up! Thank You for Providing Such a Unique and valuable information, If you are looking for the best Auto Repair Shop Eatontown, then visit https://www.awautorepairnj.com/. I enjoyed this blog post.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I have been searching for such an informative publication for many days, and it seems that my search here has just ended. Good job. Continue publishing.

    Industrial Flooring

    ReplyDelete